Spanish for condoms, you could be screwed-up if you miss the sequence on this new Twin Owls trad route which makes a direct start of the route Boots of Spanish Rubber (11).

Condones  5.12a/b

Twin Owls Formation, Lumpy Ridge

First Ascent: Eli Helmuth, July 2004. 

The south face of the Twin Owls holds the highest concentration of high-end Lumpy Routes including Anaconda (13c), Autumn Mist (13a), Coyote (12b), SIlly Putty (12a) and Crack of Fear (11a).  Condones is another pumpy testpiece to get the heart pounding.  

Description: 

Condones was established on lead after a thorough scrubbing was done on rappel to clean off the numerous tiny flakes which covered the footholds on this previously unclimbed crack.  This is a direct start to the seldom climbed multi-pitch "Boots of Spanish Rubber" which is partly due to how it was described by the first ascensionist as "harbor(ing) copiuous amounts of lichen".   Where there was a single old bolt up and left from the top of this route, now there is a new bolt with a steel ring and an equalized #10 stopper that together make a great anchor for this single pitch route.

Condones is the Spanish word for rubber, and that's what this route is all about- pasting that shoe rubber to the thinnest of features while pulling hard.  Hold on tight! 

                         Steve Johnson getting established at the start of the roof

Approach: 

From the new Lumpy Ridge parking lot, follow the new trail out of the east end of the lot towards GEM LAKE and proceed for 2/3 of a mile up the hill until one reaches the trail junction to the Twin Owls which is a LEFT turn and then over a small pass which gives great views of the Twin Owls before heading down the trail for 200 yards to reach the turn-off RIGHT up to the Twin Owls and Gollum's Arch cliffs.  Take the trail junctions left when presented with options and proceed along the base of the cliff past the Crack of Fear and uphill until the large West Chimney is encountered and the base of Condones in the big boulders to it's left.

Pitch 1

After first bouldering up a perched slab;  from a right-hand undercling, place a couple of pieces and get the #3 camalot ready to protect the top of the "up" crack before it traverses left.  A #1 and #2 camalot are helpful for the traverse moves.

                                           Steve reaching through the crux to the end of the undercling

                                            Placing some gear ( #1 camalot ) before the move over the bulge

After surmounting the small roof, place a small cam/nut or move higher to the horizontal and place a great #1 C3 in the horizontal before another tough move to get established with the feet at the horizontal.

                                              Steve pulling over the roof to reach the horizontal crack

The final layback is tenuous and the crux of the route "Boots" (11b) but it takes a solid medium sized nut in the middle of the difficulties and the crack below can be sown up with medium sized cams (#1 and #.75 camalots)

                                                            On the final crux of Condones

Descent

A new bolt with a steel chain exists at the top of this pitch and a lower-off can be easily set-up to reach the safe ground below.  20 meters from top to bottom.

Gear Beta:

A small rack with doubles in the #.75 and #1 camalot sizes and possibly in the #1 C3 range.