FA:  Unknown

Type:  Trad multi-pitch mixed

Difficulty:  WI-3 when formed or  5.7 (M2) and WI-4 when more dry

Length:  4 pitches 650', Grade III

Season:  November through  March

Warming up on the east face of Thatchtop on a cold winter day.

Warning: Avalanche Danger can be "HIGH"  on this route due to it's lee aspect and unanchored slopes in the middle of the route.  Numerous large avalanches have run the entire length of the approach for this route and avalanche debris have been observed numerous times on the approach path.  Check avalanche conditions, consider taking avalanche rescue gear when necessary, or choosing a safer location to spend the day.

Wind loading into the top, middle and bottom of this route can take place regularly or the entire cirque can also be completely scoured and mostly dry with just small pockets of slab danger in spots where there is sufficient snow.  Check conditions beforehand and reassess on the approach to be sure that snowpack stability is good enough.

Description

This classic ice and sometimes mixed line takes a dramatic and very visible path up the center of the east face of Thatchtop Mountain.

Although the route is considered a winter ice climb,  it often comes into "fat" shape by October and can last until April some seasons.

This climb can get a lot of visitation, especially on weekends at the normal beginning of the ice season (Dec. and Jan.) and so a weekday approach or being there first are two good options to avoid the danger of falling ice during the "peak" season.

Sticking the picks in good grass under drier conditions.

The "All Mixed Up" cirque on this east face of Thatchtop is actually one of the more abundant ice flows in the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park.

Being east facing means that this cirque can often be protected from the strong winter winds  but unfortunately also being the recipient of any wind blown snow combined with steep enough slope angles make for a potential avalanche basin and trap for humans.

Often the wind is strong enough to also strip these east aspects and the approach can often be on bare ground above treeline up to the base of the route.

Post-holing through the trees from Mills Lake to reach treeline is common in the winter and snowshoes may be critical in surviving this intense 'wallow'.

A satellite view of the east face of Thatchtop with the approach in green, route in blue, descent in yellow and known avalanche paths outlined in red.

When there are 6 inches or more of new snow combined with wind, this cirque is often the recipient of the wind-blown snow and with ample catch and load terrain both above and below this route, and with angles in the mid-30's on those slopes,  the risk of avalanches can at times by CONSIDERABLE, HIGH, or EXTREME- any of these three danger forecasts should probably cause one to reconsider their plans.

Caution should be used in time of CONSIDERABLE or higher avalanche danger.   Avalanche rescue gear is a good idea and very careful route management can make a difference, but the approach and the route are in an avalanche chute, so there may not be any safer route options available.  A bail-out plan to something like the Loch Vale or Ed's Cantina can be safer options when avalanche danger is especially HIGH or EXTREME.

Route Information

The approach to "All Mixed Up" involves a somewhat brutal hike for a Front Range ice route.  Departing from the Glacier Gorge trailhead at approx. 9300', the four mile total hike first goes about 2 miles to the Glacier Gorge junction where one turns south into the Glacier Gorge to cross Mills Lake (much easier when frozen).

From the south end of Mills Lake, one hopefully finds a trail up the steep forested hillside following the left edge of a section of forest taken out by a large avalanche in March of 2003.

The steep hike from the lake up to the base of the route can be anywhere from a dry hike, to one requiring snowshoes for most of the way, to a cramponing approach across and up from the lake.

Depending on snow conditions, one should be ready for any eventuality.  Avalanche conditions can range from low to extreme on the slopes immediately below and above the route and spindrift is common so a hood on the jacket can be helpful.

There are a number of alternative starts, belay stances, and at least two independent lines flank the center route, AMU.  These variations can be a bit more difficult and often require a bigger rock rack to negotiate some longer, dry patches.  In big years such as 06'/07', all three of the lines were in fat shape.

P1- 50m Up WI2 slabs and some thicker steps to belay below a short, vertical curtain.

P2- 50m Up what can sometimes be WI 4 or thin and slabby, ascend straight up the thickest curtains available.  Belaying in either ice or in some cracks at the top of the wall give more anchoring options here than above in the loose snow and willows.

P3- 30m Climb moderate snow to the base of the final ice pitch.  Belay on the far left in rock or far right on ice/rock anchors.

P4- 50m The most classic pitch of the climb at WI 3+ and well worth the effort to get there.  Usually quite fat and straight forward.  Belaying in the cliffs to the right at the top or wrapping a bunch of talus with rope are common anchoring techniques for the leader.

A rock (and turf)  anchor at the top of the second pitch and the approach slopes in typical dry conditions.

Descent

It may be prudent under common snow conditions to belay a pitch across the snowbank to the left (south) of the route finish as this slope is often shaky.

Past here the way down is all 2nd  with a little bit of 3rd class scrambling - pretty casual if you stay far enough south (skiers right) at the beginning and then wait long enough for the final connecting chute down to the base of the route, which empties out literally at the southern end of the base of the wall.

Warning:  In addition to avalanche risks which can be high at certain times, ravens are always an issue and they will easily ransack a pack for food.

Protection

In good years, a standard rack of 19-21cm screws, about 10 for the route would be adequate for belays and lead protection.  A single rope is the lightest option if retreat is unlikely.

A couple of pitons, medium knifeblade or arrows can be helpful along with a light rack of nuts and smaller cams.