Daisy chain loops will rip under relatively low forces and if rigged incorrectly, detachment from the system could result.
daisy chain techniques
Daisy chains were invented as a tool in big-wall climbing, used redundantly (a pair) in anchoring, leading, and rope ascending in direct-aid style climbing.
Only more recently in the evolution of climbing have these sewn strands of nylon become popular with climbers who will rarely if ever venture more than 80' above the ground or do a direct-aid ascent on traditional protection.
Like any climbing tool, the daisy chain has inherent strengths and weaknesses and although it is generally more foolproof than other devices, the daisy chain has a hidden flaw which could be a deadly Achilles heal if set-up incorrectly and a large enough force applied!
(Right)) An example of a correctly set-up daisy chain with only one of the loops clipped - the carabiner cannot easily disconnect from the system in this configuration. If stitches between loops rip-out under a large force fall, the carabiner will eventually reach the end of the sling where the full rating of approx. 20kn is in effect.
(click on smaller photos to enlarge)
No matter how large the ledge might be, Finley Helmuth is not happy about being clipped into this red-sling anchor, knowing that only a 600lb force could quickly separate his locking carabiner from his daisy and put him flat on his back.
Off the ground, this set-up could be deadly and this incorrect way of clipping a daisy chain should be avoided, even if there are multiple loops clipped- only the end loop is a safe secondary clipping point as it is 'full strength'. The sub-loops on a daisy chain are not full strength.
(below right) One way of correctly clipping a carabiner into the daisy chain to avoid detachment.
(above left) A carabiner INCORRECTLY attached to a daisy chain through multiple loops where when the two bar tacks rip out at around 600lbs (approx. 3kn), the carabiner will disconnect from the daisy completely. The carabiner pictured is rated to 22kn . The overhand on a bight that the daisy is connected to with 2 strands of 7mm nylon are rated to approx. 17kn with the knot in the cord being the weakest point.
One of the most likely situations where daisy chain connection failure could occur would be when the daisy is used as the sole attachment point for the belayer to an anchor, and when the leader takes a fall on this multi-pitch climb above this anchor before placing protection, a factor-2 fall (or something close) could easily create enough force to rip-out all of the stitches in the one daisy loop (above left) and would disconnect the belayer from the anchor with this incorrect rigging.
Everything in a climbing system will be tested in this potential highest force situation and the link between loop stitching on the daisy would easily be one of the weakest links. A cross-loaded carabiner might be the potentially second weakest link although the belayer's hand grip strength on the rope is far less than all of these and without a self-locking device, the belayer would be the weakest link in the above scenario- so bring two!
So what are we worried about in the rappelling configuration at right?
It would be very difficult in rappelling to create forces above 600# on this daisy chain loop and if one set of stitches blew out, the rappeller's weight would drop two inches onto the next loop. This breaking of stitches is probably the least of your worries if you're trying to hold a 600# load while rappelling
I would say that the strength of many rappel anchors is more critical of an element than the strength of these daisy loops as I have seen too many anchors over the years that don't possess this total strength.
Using the daisy chain to extend the rappel device to facilitate a 'backed-up' descent.
What are the alternatives?
Although there is nothing inherently wrong with 'daisy chains' or 'personal anchor systems', there does exist the option of not using these devices at all, except in specific big-wall environments where climbers are continuously connected to ascenders or anchors with a pair of daisy chains.
One of the first things that happens on Day 1 of first level AMGA courses is that instructors usually ask that daisy chains be put away for the duration of the course.
Why? Because these loops of nylon can be more of a hindrance than a help and the AMGA staff are often emphasizing carrying the minimal amount of tools for a guide/climber to safely get the job done.
Using the climbing rope as the sole attachment directly from the climber to the anchor, using either an overhand/figure 8 on a bight or clove hitch as the attachment knot.
Due to it's ease of use and functionality, the clove hitch shown at right and below is a well-tested and favored link in this part of the anchoring system.
Wrap-up
It's always good to consider the potential for each part of the climbing protection system to fail and thus to be aware of what is truly the weakest links in any system (as opposed to the perceived weakest link).
What are the potentials for these scenarios to occur? We haven't seen a rash of daisy chain failures due to the multiple loop clipping scenario, (although I've heard of a few close calls), so it is likely not very high.
But, knowing that a small factor-2 type fall can easily rip out the stitches between loops (I've done this a few times on aid climbs), should create a high awareness of the hidden danger of having just any two loops on a daisy clipped into the attachment carabiner. Using only one loop at a time or using seperate carabiners to adjust length are other techniques used to avoid this hidden danger.
First, lets be clear: daisy chains are for aid climbing NOT for use as part of your personal anchor system. Don’t know how to properly anchor yourself using the rope? Don't know how to thread sport anchors without using a daisy chain? Get some instruction from a professional guide before you get yourself hurt.
Second, and regarding this video, if you incorrectly clip in short to a daisy while aid climbing, it can be potentially bad. Very bad. The thing to remember when clipping in short using a daisy is to use a SECOND carabiner to shorten it up, thus avoiding the potential loading scenario above.
To read Black Diamond's full QC Lab report on daisy chain dangers, go here.
