How to get down in one piece.
In the minds of many experienced climbers, rappelling is the least favorite and the most stressful part of the climbing experience. When ascending the rock; the anchors, rope and belay are all the catch-net should we take a fall. In rappelling, we are completely hanging from our equipment and there is no back-up to the system so the system must be completely solid.
This article covers the important basics of rappelling- basics that even the most experienced rock jock should be paying attention to each time they hang from the descending system.
The Anchor: Look before you leap
All too often in descending accidents, failure of the rappel anchor is the main cause. Remember, just because someone else previously used a given anchor is not an adequate reason for you to use the same anchor. Things change or it may have been inadequate to start.
When I started climbing in the early 80’s, there was a strong ethic in the climbing community that discouraged leaving gear behind; and that any gear left behind should be the absolute minimum. It seemed strange to me then, and now, that a person who would take great caution to set-up systems on the ascent to be “bomber”, would risk it all on a sketchy rappel anchor (rappelling off of one nut or a loose block) just to save a few bucks.
The same rules that apply on climbing anchors apply to rappel anchors: Solid, Equalized, and Redundant.
Solid: Unquestionable strength
Rappel anchors need to hold significantly more than body weight. Each point of an anchor, be it one large tree or three pieces of gear needs to be individually solid. Check each component thoroughly. Is the tree alive? Does it move when you shake it? (bad sign) Are the wires connected to the nut? Are the pitons rusty? The worst decision you can make while rappelling is to have blind faith in the anchor.
Be wary of fixed gear, test it before you dangle you life from its eyelets. I’ve pulled out dozens of pitons with a firm outward yank, and removed countless old bolts with little more than a few tugs. Pitons and old bolts rust with age and the freeze/thaw cycle which takes place in many environments can cause pitons to easily pull-out, sometimes in less than a few days after being placed. When in doubt, add more gear (nuts or hexes are cheapest).
Equalized: Share the load equally
Be warned: the "death triangle" is not an anchor that shares a load equally and the self-equalizing method is barely better due to the shock-loading potential should one piece fail. Pre-equalized (all points connecting to one master point via a knot) is the way to go.
I'm not sure that anyone has actually died from the triangle as they are often between very solid bolts. I do know that many climbers have died because their rappel anchor was not adequate for the load.
Redundant: Don't depend on just one
Multiple pieces of solid gear are the way to go, with each piece holding it’s equal share of the weight. The only time I rappel from one point is when it is a healthy living tree that is bigger than my fat uncle's thigh.
The Master Point: Your connection to this world
The master point is what any anchor comes down to: make sure you are using the right materials and applying the same principles of Solid, Equalized and Redundant. Metal links at the master point are always a better idea than relying on the nylon from cord or webbing.
I have seen ropes of the same diameter burn through one inch webbing because they move through a rappel device at different rates. Aluminum rappel rings are the cheapest solution: remember these are hollow and unless brand new should be doubled up to assure adequate strength. Steel links bought from a hardware store or climbing shop (5/16” minimum) are the more modern solution and their stamped strength is actually 1/3 of their full strength as they are manufactured for industrial use which has different rating guidelines - the strength should be printed on the side of the link.
Carabiners are another great alternative but be sure to leave a locker or tape shut the gate on the biner to keep it from opening as at the point they open they are usually 1/3 to 1/4 of their full strength and you may not be there to fix the situation. Of course when possible or necessary, redundancy with links or carabiners is more ideal.
Pre- Made Master Points: Can you trust it?
Many modern anchors now consist of bolts either 3/8” or ½” in diameter which have hangers that are equipped with steel links, rings or extra-wide hangers. These are set up to be threaded directly by the rappel rope and to provide a smooth pull from below when retrieving the ropes. When allowed and possible, these bolt anchors are the safest solutions: webbing left on cliffs loses its strength quickly when exposed to the elements.
From a visual perspective, webbing is often an eyesore at the crags and attracts the attention of those who dislike the visual pollution caused by large bright colors. Metal can be painted to match the cliffs and then becomes visible only from close distance.
The Leash: Personal protection comes first
Too many accidents result from an unanchored rappeller falling or being knocked off of an exposed stance. Clip yourself into the anchor first thing and take yourself off the anchor last after checking all of your systems.
A sling tied with a water knot/ring bend is not foolproof since these knots can untie easily (causing accidents each year) and will slowly slip under load even when properly tied. A sewn sling, either a 24” or 48” loop, is a better option.
Short and Sweet: One rope rappel
When you rappel with one rope the most important thing is to make sure the middle of the rope is at the anchor. This can be easily achieved by using a rope that changes patterns at the middle or is marked with ink that is recommended by the manufacturer.
Tape as a middle marker can move on the rope, get stuck in cracks or fall off and tends to have a short lifespan. As a habit, I start with both ends of the rope in my hands and equally pull the rope through the anchor until I reach the middle.
Joining the ropes: A perfect union
Once you need two ropes to rappel a plethora of options arise for joining your cords. The double fisherman’s knot or a retraced eight are both appropriate for joining two ropes together. Though these knots are very secure, their big disadvantage is that they lay flat against the rock when being pulled from below and thus abrade the end of the rope - the part to which we tie-in. They can also be very difficult to untie after being loaded.
Many climbers prefer to use the flat overhand which is more than adequate for the forces involved in rappelling and which has the great advantage of sitting above the rock which makes pulling the ropes down significantly easier (less friction). The key to using the flat overhand is to have adequate tail (1 foot) on the knot and to pull it tight.
Rappel devices: Speed control
Most modern rappel devices work equally well. Rappelling creates friction and thus heat and so rappel devices which have larger surface areas tend to dissipate that heat better and keep the rope from getting too hot. If you can keep the two strands of the rappel rope from twisting, pulling them will be easier. Most modern day devices do this for you with a separate shelf for each strand.
A “figure eight” rappel device is less ideal due to its tendency to twist the ropes. Keep loose clothing, hair, helmet straps or anything that could catch in the rappel device out of the way- the worst I’ve heard of is loose arm skin catching, so keep that stuff clear.
The belay loop is the strongest part of the harness. When a carabiner is attached to the belay loop instead of being clipped directly into the harness, it is stronger because it is not being triaxally loaded. The belay loop also extends the rappel device further away from your body, making your back-up function better and allowing you to keep both hands on the brake side of the rope. This doubles your amount of control.
Back-ups: Added protection
The simplest back-up is to tie knots at the bottom of your rappel ropes, keeping you from launching off the ends. For added safety, many climbers back-up their rappel with a friction hitch. This prevents you from being zipped down to the end of your rappel in the event of rockfall, lightning, seizure, etc, and allows you to untangle the rope with both hands.
Traditionally, back-ups were commonly applied with a prussik hitch on cord that is connected from the climbers harness to the rope above the rappel device. Although this method works adequately it has the disadvantage of becoming fully weighted more easily. On steep terrain this can make releasing the back-up quite difficult.
The more user friendly method for putting a back-up on rappel is to apply the friction hitch below the rappel device on the brake-hand side, connected short to the leg loop.
A prussik hitch made with 5 or 6 mm cord works well in this application; pure nylon has a higher melting temperature (better) than the higher tensile strength materials. A sewn shoulder-length nylon sling also works well when girth-hitched to the leg loop then tied with an autoblock hitch (illustration) which is connected back to the leg loop. Be aware that both of these friction hitches will not engage if they come in contact with the rappel device so they must be relatively short loops. If you are attaching your back up to your leg loop make sure that it is also full strength.
Another popular option is to extend the rappel device with a sewn sling that is girth hitched to the harness. This method puts the rappel device further from the body, and then the back-up can be clipped directly to the belay loop. This also gives you more space under the rappel device so that both hands can easily control the brake. Be careful that the rappel rope does not burn the extension sling – a good reason to use a locker on your back-up in case it is fully supporting your weight.
Throwing the Rope: How to chuck, coil, and stuff the rope down the cliff
If you are throwing down the rope from above, alert others below you by yelling “rope!” and then waiting for their reply “clear”. Coiling the entire rope in one hand to throw down the cliff often results in tangles and knots. Splitting the coil into two sections, one in each hand, then throwing the first coil straight down (not out- pitching style) has the best chance of getting the ropes down in windy environments. If you’re throwing down two ropes, do one at a time.
In the most extreme winds where a thrown rope can sail above the climber and lodge itself in unclimbable terrain, survival can be at stake. If this is the case, you have two options:
1. Carry the rope down on your harness so that it stays in control. Loop the rope in small coils and secure these coils to your harness on each side with a 24” slings, clipped at both ends into the gear loops.
2. Use two medium size stuff sacks (which could have been holding your rainjacket or snack food) that have pre-attached loops on their sides (illustration) to hold the rope on either side. Make sure the ropes have solid stopper knots at their ends because you won’t as easily see them coming. Coil the rope in the bags as you would a throw rope for boating.
Plan B: What to do when your ropes get stuck
After the first climber descends it’s a good idea to test pull the ropes to be sure they’ll move when weighted from below. If, even by moving as far back from the cliff as possible (which may not be possible at all on a big wall) they won’t budge, the climber up top should change the set-up to enable this action. Extending anchors over an edge may be necessary, or just adding a carabiner may do the trick.
Even when you’ve done everything in your power to make things smooth, the inevitable may happen- the ropes will be lodged in some way that is impossible to release from below. If you still have both ends of the rope in your possession when you realize this, you’re in luck. Use prussic hitches or improvise using klemheist hitches with shoulder length webbing. These two hitches have the most holding power, and you want all you can get when you’re dangling from a few strands of nylon on nylon. Reversos or any other plaquette used in their autolock mode also make an efficient ascending system Back-up knots are crucial – how often depends on the circumstance. At least one figure 8 every thirty feet is recommended.
The worst-case scenario is only having one strand of a stuck rope in your hands. Not being sure what you’re dangling from should eliminate the desire to ascend your one stuck strand. The only safe alternative is to lead a pitch or as many as are necessary for the leader to reach the top anchor. Use aid, stand in slings, and do whatever necessary to safely lead back up to your rappel anchor, pesky flake, etc so that you can fix the problem and descend the pitch again.
This article was originally published in "Rock and Ice" magazine under the title "Get Down on It"
Eli Helmuth admits to preferring any walk-off over a good rappel despite having built 32 rappel anchors on one trip while in the process of making complete descents of the North and Central Torres del Paine in Chile. He is an AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine, and Ski Mountaineering Guide and has served as the AMGA Alpine Discipline Coordinator since 2002.
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