The southeast face of Taylor Peak, aka "East Face Left" is one of the classic multi-pitch steep snow and moderate rock routes in Rocky Mountain National Park.  This direct route up a very steep face is the most moderate path up an otherwise imposing wall on a 13,153' mountain.

Taylor Peak, Southeast Face

III 5.6, 50-60 degree snow

The east face of Taylor Peak holds some of the best moderate rock and snow routes in Rocky Mountain National Park and at this point in time, some of the least travelled.  The "Southeast Face" route is a very aesthetic line up this magnificent face and one that holds some interesting but moderate challenges on rock and snow.  This route is typically in "ideal shape" between March and July when the snow conditions are firm with low avalanche risk.

Location 

The approach to Taylor Peak starts at the Glacier Gorge trailhead which is approx. 1 mile before the end of the NPS road to Bear Lake.  Head to the Loch Vale (1 hr) and then to the Sky Pond (45min) and then climb the steep talus slope below the south face of the Petit Grepon to reach the bench to the west which connects with the permanent snow slope at the base of the east face of Taylor (30min).

Follow the Taylor hanging "snow ramp" to it's western high point (45 degree snow) to reach the ridgecrest at it's right-most col.  An airy perch here puts one at the base of the route which starts with the crux rock moves right out of the notch.  Above this first rocky bit, the route trends right to a snow gulley and then follows this snow gulley/ramp up to the highest point on the southeast ridge of Taylor Peak and to it's 13,153' summit

Route Information

P1- 50m  Starting from the right-most col on the eastern ridge of Taylor, make a couple of steep rock moves (5.6) above the snow arete with good gear then trend up and right on more moderate rock taking the path of least resistance.

P2- 50m  Continue traversing up and right taking the most moderate path and aiming for a hanging small snowfield in this part of the face.  Anchor in the rock here.

P3- 50m   A traverse straight right here across the top of the hanging snowfield and around a corner (5.5) brings one into the prominent snow couloir which splits this side of the face.

P4- 40m Continue up on steep snow through a bottleneck and then through a narrow section of snow heading back left a bit where there is a great crack/flake rock anchor.

P5- 30m Continue up steep snow directly up to a short vertical rock wall with nice cracks for a belay.

P6- 40m Head right out of the belay on snow and then straight up to the highest col on the east ridge proper.

P7- 60m  The final pitch on steep snow with good rock protection takes one up and left to the summit plateau

Descent

The easiest and most direct descent off of the east face of Taylor Peak is to downclimb/glissade the large couloir immediately right (north) of the east face.  One can also continue traversing north along the continental divide to the next valley north where the Ptarmagin Glacier can be descended down to the trail at it's base.

Equipment

A standard rock rack with doubles of all sizes up to a #2 camalot and a few pitons seems best.  At least a dozen shoulder length slings to reduce rope-drag and a few quick draws would be helpful.  One single 60 meter rope should be sufficient for an "up and over" ascent.  If the weather is risky or the route near one's limits, perhaps another 60m "tag-line" would be helpful to facilitate a potential retreat.  Extra cord and webbing plus 'leaver biners" would also assist in a long descent.