Hallett North Butt.

"Jackin' the Johnson"

IV 5.11+ 

Description 

This new addition to the Second Buttress on Hallett Peak combines a few old pitches with some new ones to create a fantastic line up this incredible rock face.

Location 

This route starts just right of the Culp-Bossier, in the second small dihedral to the right (about 50') of the CB start, which is the same as for the Love, Englishman's, and Jackson-Johnson routes, also. The second pitch climbs on the east aspect of an obvious and striking prow with the belay ledge right on top of the prow. The direct start to the JJ starts in the major dihedral system 100' to the west of this prow. Recommended descent is down the east ridge to the rappels. 

No fixed anchors other than the 2nd pitch are available, so retreat could be a costly endeavor.

The crux 150' second pitch is the money one as it ascends increasingly steeper rock to a 5-bolt protected crux to a 2-bolt belay. These are the only bolts on the route, not including the two old ones that are encountered on the last pitch which is part of the original Jackson-Johnson.

Route Information

P1- 5.9 (15m) Climb the initially steep dihedral past some grassy sections then into a short offwidth corner which can be laybacked then after about 40' traverse right to a 10' long .75 Camalot crack which makes for a nice belay- the horn above has a sling on it as well.

P2- 5.11 (45m) Climb straight up from the belay, past some loose rock past a pin then into a 15' wide section under a ceiling which is bypassed on the right by a hand rack. 

Follow this crack to the end then left to an undercling (#2 Camalot) and layback past another pin which protects balancy moves up right onto the face and the first of 5 bolts which protect the crux . Medium cams and nut placements are available  on the finish to the bolted anchors (60m rappel to the ground).

P3- 5.7 (50m) Climb straight up from the anchor past a pin and then easier ground to intersect with the Jackson for a few feet, then continue straight up into a wide groove where the Jackson goes right.

P4- 5.9 (40m) Steep cracks lead straight up to a big belay ledge on the big quartzite band.

 

P5- 5.10a (55m) Traverse left out of the belay on loose rock to an arching R-facing corner. Pull the roof into the corner and follow this up then head straight out of the top of this crack where it arches right then 15m up to the start of the 61 meter ramp (This is probably P-6 on the "Dark Side" route).

P6- 5.9 (61m) Climb the right-angling "61 meter ramp" which is really cool and described as variation 13d in the Rossiter guide.

P7- 5.9+ (60m) Climb a steep quartz crack out of the ramp end then back left into an obvious rt. facing dihedral which is the Jackson-Johnson finish past one old bolt.

P8- 5.7 (15m) A short and somewhat loose pitch takes you to the top.

Descent

From the summit plateau, walk easily east following the many cairns to the end of the escarpment  where you will find a relatively new two-bolt anchor.  A 30m rappel straight down brings you to a big ledge with a threaded sling anchor above.  Another 30m rappel off of this anchor takes you to the dirt and a short down-climb into a gully which is followed down and skiers left to eventually another scree gully which winds down and left to the base of the cliff.

Equipment  

A standard rack to #3 Camalot, doubles of all sizes down to a .25 Camalot and extra shoulder length and double-shoulder-length slings are helpful. Five bolts and two pins protect the crux second pitch which ends at a nice ledge on a prow- this is the only pitch with new fixed hardware other than one pin on the start of the third pitch.