Red Rocks, Nevada is one of the premier rock climbing destinations in North America and with very close proximity to Las Vegas, all of the possible amenities are available in this unique desert Yosemite. 

Rockaineering, or the sport of climbing very large rock walls via mostly or all completely "free" techniques was pioneered here since the early 1970's and the resulting long and adventurous routes on these very climber-friendly sandstone cliffs are demanding in their multitude of challenges.  Climbing here requires ability in climbing every type of crack from finger-tip to body-width in size combined with skilled route finding and endurance to last through a very long desert day.  The necessary equipment often involves a large set of camming devices but more importantly a great partner along with training, experience and  well-developed skill in multi-pitch free climbing are essential to survival in this committing rock environment.

Red Rocks has for  40 years been one of the biggest desert escarpments ascended by climbers in this unique and wild canyon environment.  Red Rocks is managed and preserved by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and it is a popular "drive-thru" park for those casino visitors who are in search of a breath of fresh air and willing to make the 30 min. drive out of Las Vegas to the park loop-road for a look at the stark Mojave desert.  The cliffs here soar for thousands of feet above the boulder choked canyons that align on an east to west axis in the wildness of southern Nevada and the nearby Mount Charleston.

My own climbing adventures at Red Rocks started in the late 1980's when I first wandered into these amazing canyons with most of these early forays resulting in long climbing days, usually starting and ending by headlamp.  I have now worked annually for more than fifteen years as a guide and guide trainer In Red Rocks under permit of the AMGA and the AAI and in this time shared many incredible climbing (and descending) adventures with guests and fellow guides.

The AMGA rock guide exam in early October of 2008 was a busy one as our crew of three examiners and six candidates did a full 5 days of climbing on mostly grade III and IV routes, sometimes two in a day.  The goal of this exam is to assess the aspiring guide's abilities in safely guiding a party of two guests up and down complex rock climbing terrain up to the grade V, 5.10 A2 standard- in a day.  Potentially guiding on El Capitan, the Diamond, or in the Black Canyon are the types of terrain that meet the international standards of rock guiding, and so for the length of the climb each day, the candidates are tested with their "clients" in regard to "getting the job done safely" which is not an easy task on the big walls of Red Rocks.  We completed most of our routes, including ""Epinepherine" in about 9-10 hrs. roundtrip to the car.

On this exam in Red Rocks, our group of candidate guides led us up routes as diverse and long as:  Epinephrine (V 5.10-), Cloud Tower (III 5.11+), Community Pillar (III 5.9), Black Orpheus (IV 5.10a),  Frigid Air Buttress (III 5.9),  Crimson Chrysalis (III 5.8+), Dark Shadows (III 5.8+), and the lesser visited Chuckwalla (III 5.8).   Early October is still late summer in the Mojave Desert and temperatures at mid-day were in the mid-90's in the sun and so we managed to get up early and stay in the shade (thankfully) for most of each day and we found excellent climbing conditions and rarely any other climbers in the canyons. 

Passing this final exam in the AMGA rock guiding program results in a guide becoming rock guide certified which is the highest standard for rock guiding in the U.S. and is at the international standard for rock guides.  Many employers require this standard of certification of their guides and this difficult exam is certainly a solid test of one's abilities in regard to safe guiding in large, vertical terrain.  There are currently more than 100 certified rock guides in the United States.  Four out of the six candidates on this exam achieved their rock guide certification and for all it was considered a valuable learning experience.

I barely passed my rock guide certification in Yosemite National Park in 1991 while guiding such diverse routes as the East Buttress of El Capitan (IV 5.10) and the Third Pillar on Mt. Dana (IV 5.10) over a grueling week-long exam which followed weeks of training and years of experience.   These exams have been administered annually, typically in the spring and fall seasons since 1990, and Red Rocks is one of the primary exam locations due to the challenging terrain and accessible venue combined with a very favorable climate.

Adam George pulling flakes above the previous chimney pitches on Epinephrine. 

Andy and Kevin at the top of pitch 13 out of 16 on the ultra-classic Epinephrine.

Newly certified rock and IFMGA guide Steve Banks, on the 5.10 crack pitch of Cloud Tower with the crux pitch above.

Adam George starting the crux technical pitch of the "Astroman of Red Rocks", the Cloud Tower pitch 5 - 5.11+.

In the technical crux of Cloud Tower;  very reminiscent of the best of Eldo with similar holds but in softer sandstone.

         Adam pulling ropes up the Indian Creek splitter last pitch (11+) of the Cloud Tower.

   The 7th and final pitch, a perfect hand crack that stretchs 50m up the Cloud Tower on Rainbow Mountain.