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Ecuador
Andean Volcano Mountaineering
Nov. 9-19, 2009
click on
photos to enlarge
We enjoyed a ten
day, custom mountaineering trip to the extraordinary volcanoes
surrounding the Andean Equator in November of 2009.
Ecuador is an internationally popular area
for climbers and trekkers, with most climbers visiting here
from November to February when the weather is considered most dry in
this often cloudy, rainy, and very green landscape. This is a
comfortable environment to experience South America's greatest high
altitude volcano climbing,
for the beginner to advanced alpinist.
Volcan
Cayambe (18,996') was our acclimatization peak and although we did not
go for the summit on this trip, these large equatorial glaciers served
as a great training ground and our climb to 17.5k helped immensely
with preparation for later climbs.
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The slopes leading
to the summit of the dormant volcano Rucu Pichincha (15,413'); our
first acclimatization climb which involved a 2.4k elevation gain from
the top of the tram, and includes 3rd class climbing to gain this
striking summit above Quito.
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The Teleferiqo (tram) in
Quito is just five years old and makes for a nice, easy ride from
10k-13k to the start of our climb of Rucu Pichincha.
These
colorful club moss (lycopodium crassum) dot the slopes high on Rucu
Pichincha.
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Climbing up the slopes
of Pichincha on the Teleferiqo above the modern and pre-colonial
capital city of Quito, with a population of approx. 1.5 million
inhabitants.
The grass covered ridge which traverses from the top of the tram
to the summit ridge of Rucu, offering excellent views of the Quito
plateau.
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Steve climbing the final slopes to the summit spire finish of
Rucu Pichincha- an 8 hr. round trip from our hotel in Quito.
Steve traversing a rocky slope on the way to the summit of Rucu
Pichincha.
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Volcan Cayambe
(18,996') shining in the morning sun on a rare cloudless day
on the equator.
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The lower glacier on the south face of Cayambe.
Although this glacier has receded significantly in the last
16 years that I have been climbing in Ecuador, it is still a perfect
training ground for practicing cramponing on glacial ice.
A cloudy sunset on
Cayambe.
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Steve
on the final approach to the upper entrance to the Cayambe glacier.
Steve descending from the upper Cayambe glacier on 2nd and 3rd class
terrain that rises from 15k for 600' to the glacier entrance.
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Looking south from
Cayambe with the volcanoes Cotopaxi (19,347') and Chimborazo (20,565')
rising above the Altiplano.
The lower glacial slopes of Cayambe, with the equatorial line running
across these slopes to make this the only glacier that sits on the
equator.
Eli
enjoying some outstanding bouldering at 15k, just a few minutes from
the Cayambe hut.
Looking east towards the Amazon Basin from the slopes of Cayambe.
Weather moves from east to west at these latitudes and so we
were constantly looking towards the Amazon to see what kind of weather
might be coming our way.
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An interesting alpine plant; Equisetum, on the slopes of Cayambe.
Steve on the final scramble to the Cayambe Glacier.
Steve near our high point at 17.5k on the Cayambe Glacier.
Taking a break on the lower, dry (not snow covered) glacier on the
south face of Cayambe.
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Enjoying the Tambopaxi
hut, with a photo of one of the outbuildings and Cotopaxi on a clear
day, rising 5k above the hut and the surrounding Altiplano landscape.
One of the lodges on the Tambopaxi grounds. This one has five
private rooms with attached bathrooms and a communal sitting area.
Our driver and co-guide, IFMGA licensed mountain guide Alejo Lazzati
and Steve enjoying a tasty meal of soup, grilled trout, and an
incredible flan in the Tambopaxi lodge.
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The Tambopaxi huts are
straw bale construction buildings- here the 'truth window' of the main
hut is framed by a couple of decorative bottles.
Steve finishing the final pack preparation before our departure from
Tambopaxi to the trailhead where we started our climb to the Cotopaxi
high hut.
Alejo discussing conditions on the mountain with the manager of the
Cotopaxi hut. This comfortable hut is situated at
15,800' on the slopes of this large and somewhat active volcano.
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Looking
south again from Cayambe with (L-R): Antisana (18,874'),
Chimborazo (furthest away) and Cotopaxi. Including Cayambe,
these are Ecuador's four highest peaks.
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Hikers enjoying the
views from the lower grass covered slopes of Rucu Pichincha.
Eli talking on Skype and doing a bit of Facebooking from the
comfortable lobby of the Swissotel in downtown Quito, Ecuador.
One of the many interesting alpine plants growing above 14k in Ecuador.
These 'Bog Plants' (plantago rigido) cover the ground in
large groups on the sand covered slopes of these (some) active and
dormant volcanoes.
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One of the many vases of roses decorating the lobby of the Swissotel,
where we recuperated from our climbing days in Ecuador. Roses
are Ecuador's third biggest export, following oil and bananas.
A close-up of the icefall on the lower Cayambe Glacier.
Eli enjoying some high quality bouldering above 15k on the lower slopes
of Cayambe.
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The
north face of Cotopaxi ( 19,347') mostly covered in clouds prior to our
ascent on Nov. 18th, 2009. We climbed through an all night snowstorm and with no more than 100' visibility for our entire time on this, Ecuador's most famous volcano.
Eli
Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides is
returning to the volcanoes of Ecuador in October and November of 2010
with trips to all of the significant peaks including: Rucu
Pichincha, Illiniza Sur and Norte, Antisana, Cayambe, Cotopaxi, and
Chimborazo. Ten day and two week itineraries will offer both
comfortable hotel, hacienda, and hut based lodging as well as
tent-based climbing trips for those looking for a more wilderness based
experience. Eli has 16 years of experience in Ecuador and he
is one of the few Spanish speaking and knowledgeable
U.S. based guides that specializes in climbing trips to this inspiring
Andean country.
Please
call with questions or to book your next
backcountry skiing, mountaineering, or
rock climbing trip:
970.744.4898 or
contact us at:
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ClimbingLife
Guides is an authorized permittee of Rocky Mountain National Park,
Eldorado Canyon State Park, Denali National Park, and the
Boulder Mountain Open Space.
www.guide.climbinglife.com
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ClimbingLife Guides, 2009 All Rights Reserved.
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