September 25th, 2009

Conditions  Report

Rocky Mountain National Park  

We went looking for ice yesterday and at least in the Longs Peak Cirque where we spent the day, there was minimal climbable ice as a result of our recent storm systems.

The 'Loft Ice' was about the only climbable looking flow other than a couple of extreme ice routes on Mt. Lady Washington which due to it's south-facing aspect should be gone by the weekend.

Trail conditions were about half dry and half snow covered on the way up to Chasm Lake yesterday and we wore sneakers until well above treeline where eventually the wind had  created some foot deep drifts on the trail.

With the current weather forecast calling for a warming trend over the weekend, it seems unlikely that much of the ice formed in this last storm will survive, but with another cold system forecast for later in the week, this current weather pattern is most conducive to the formation of alpine water ice.

Time to start sharpening the tools, if at least to take them for a long walk!

Chasm Lake and the Diamond Face of Longs Peak on the morning of Sept. 23rd.

  

Sunrise over the Front Range on Sept. 24th on what was a mostly snowy, overcast, and cold day in the high peaks.  For updates from Rocky Mountain National Park on road, trail, and climbing conditions on Longs, visit the RMNP -National Park Service website here.

 
(Left upper) A large angle piton pulled-out by hand from the first pitch layback crux of the Yellow Spur (III 5.10c) on the Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon.   Although this pin has likely caught numerous falls and held many climbers on the 'take', it seems to have fulfilled it's purpose and is now retired from use.  A camalot sizes .4 or .5 fit well in the same crack where this piton once provided protection.

(Upper Right)  Chris Erickson high on the final pitch of the Yellow Spur on an AMGA Rock Guide Course taught by Eli Helmuth in early September. 

Two major storms in the last few weeks have left behind some accumulations of snow which will become the basal layers in our snowpack.

Although most of this new snow is relatively warm and wet at this point in time and bonding is overall good to old snow surfaces, time and cold air will likely transform these rounded grains on the ground  into the dreaded depth hoar (basal facets) that can be a probably source of early season avalanches.  

Remember that even a few feet of snow on a slick bed surface (meadows, rock slabs, etc.) can result in strong over weak layering and with a cohesive slab on the surface,  large and deadly human triggered avalanche will become a possibility.  

So even though  the Avalanche Danger  in RMNP is still LOW to MODERATE at the moment on slopes such as the Lambslide, Andrews Glacier, the North Face of Longs, and the Loft- with more accumulations there will be the potential for avalanche activity.

These initial storms did not produce large quantities of climbable ice but the snow that was deposited will be melting and refreezing over the coming week and next week's forecast storm could likely be the one that produces some of the classic ice routes in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Trail conditions below 11k should be mostly dry through the weekend and quickly drying out above treeline with the warm forecast for this upcoming weekend.

(above) The north face of Mt. Meeker often holds some of the better forming mixed testpieces in the alpine zone of RMNP but there looked to be very little ice other than the Loft which has formed thus far.   However, if this weather pattern of winter-like storms followed by warm periods persists for a while, the ice could form into 'thick' conditions (more than an inch) on this high quality alpine wall.

Chasm Lake, perhaps the most mis-pronounced destination in RMNP  and until it freezes thick, a real pain in the rear to traverse around when the talus is covered with 3-6" of new snow as it was the other day.  Not breaking a leg or blowing out a knee on these slippery slopes is the key to a safe day at these altitudes.

(Upper right)  Rappelling down the RMNP testpiece Necrophilia, after a Sept. 25th ascent.  Photo and lead by Kelly Cordes.

   (Above )  Eli  'french-freeing' on the FA of  the first pitch of ' Ladyback' on Mt. Lady Washington.  After getting the rope up this pitch and pulling out a few loose chockstones from the crack, we found the climbing to be in the 5.11 range which in a freezing blizzard we'll call M7 for now and likely down rate to 5.9 when we're in t-shirts with chalked hands.  A thin veneer of ice in the off-width section made for challenging protection and climbing but great hooking on the vertical face to the left made for a very climbable pitch.

Lumpy Ridge shines in the mid-day light on September 23rd,- day 2 of this three day storm which gave some always needed moisture to the Estes Valley  but quickly dried out by Friday the 25th.  The climbing on the south-facing cliffs of Lumpy is often best this time of year with temperatures in the 60-70's, the friction is much better for sticking to the small edges and crystals which give Lumpy its charm and character (and lots of pain and torn skin for us).  But it's been said, "if it doesn't hurt, you're not crack climbing",  and, "if you're not bleeding, you're not at Lumpy Ridge".  Really just a small price to pay for a lot of fun in the sun if you ask me.

 David Harold training in aid climbing  and self-rescue on the Bastille in Eldorado Canyon.

As we transition into the Autumn and Winter season in the Front Ranges of Colorado, the options for activities only increase. Whether to rock climb in the sun, ice climb in the shade, get some powder tracks in the backcountry or soon at the resorts; there are plenty of options for multi-sport days.   Plus with many of the visitors gone, the valleys and peaks are getting quiet and who can complain about that?

(Above) Climbers on the first pitch of the Naked Edge (III 11c) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.  Since this route is closed for much of the spring and early summer, autumn is one of the better times for climbing on these south-facing cliffs.

Eli is available year-round to coach climbers of all abilities and experience in the fundamental and advanced techniques in all disciples of rock climbing and mountain skiing/climbing.

Climbers on the second pitch out of five  on 'The Bulge'  II 5.7  on the east face of the Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.  Due to a lack of protection on this long, traversing pitch, it is considered 'sharp at both ends' as both the leader and second are much better off in this situation not taking the big pendulum whipper.

One of my favorite morning views in the summertime when commuting from Estes Park to Eldorado Canyon:  what a great way to enjoy the sunrise!

North American Avalanche Danger Scale

Danger Level
(& Color)

Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger

Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger

Recommended Action
in the Backcountry

Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.

Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.

Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.

Use caution in steeper terrain and  on certain aspects. 

(ORANGE)

Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.

Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.

Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.

Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.

Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.

Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible. 

Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.