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may12cond
Up-to-date information on ice, alpine routes, and backcountry skiing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Snow conditions and avalanche danger are forecast by Eli Helmuth, an AMGA certified rock, alpine, and ski mountaineering guide and owner of ClimbingLife Guides.
Warning: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. ClimbingLife, LLC and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports and one can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities. Proceed at your own risk, plan for the best outcome and be prepared for the worst.
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May 12th, 2011
Snow and Ice Report
Rocky Mountain National Park
I've said it before this year and I'll say it again, "If you thought ski season was over because it's getting warm where you live, think again".
We started May in RMNP with the warmest week of the year that both kicked-off the shedding season and helped solidify what is still a mix of winter and summer snowpacks.
The number of cornices primed for dropping may reach a record this spring as the recent storm on May 11-12th deposited another foot of new snow throughout the high country to what has been a bountiful year. It's likely that after a few days of warm weather in the peaks, these new layers should consolidate into a well bonded quickly as the storm started warm onto a warm snowpack in many locations.
The coldest slopes likely had icy surfaces where bonding of new layers would be less likely and so slab danger could last for some time on high, north facing aspects.
This is a complex season for avalanche forecasting as the shedding season (spring) contains a mix of snowpack dangers. On warmer aspects (south-west), things are more akin to the Sierra with quickly rising and falling avi danger as each storm track passes.
As soon as the heat moves in later tomorrow (May 13), we should see quick releases on south aspects again and a slow but strengthening metamorphosis on the colder aspects.
 Tracks down the Mini AK entrance to the Knobtop Cirque of RMNP. Read more here about this big bowl of exciting entrances just north of the famed Notchtop Spire. Photo courtesy of Tom Armento.
Skiing conditions are overall excellent due to this thick coverage on all aspects except on the Continental Divide and other high elevation and exposed terrain where strong winds almost always prohibit snow accumulation.
Pockets of CONSIDERABLE DANGER (or higher) can exist in this high mountain terrain, especially where slopes are unsupported by cliffs below, new slabs are present, and lee loading creates energized slab pockets.
Steve Towne on the fourth pitch of Hallet's Chimney on May 7th, 2011.
This ephemeral ice route is far from being in ideal ice shape, but that doesn't stop many climbers from making the pilgrimage to this iconic cleft between the 1st and 2nd Buttresses on Hallett's north face.
The winds are finally taking some rest days and we're getting closer to the calmer (wind-wise) summer season.
Steve on the second mixed pitch of Hallett Chimney before the last big storm. These guys bailed due to quickly warming conditions and too-soft snow on the route as the day quickly heated-up.
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Looking down the skiers right-hand start to the Dragontail Couloir with the short rock step completely filled-in and overall good snow conditions to the valley floor on May 2nd, 2011. Warm weather on Friday the 13th will bring-on an early corn cycle and it would be prudent to be climbing this couloir in the cold of darkness when the heat returns to the high country.
Prime corn conditions starting from the top of this cooler will likely be in the 9-10am time frame on any of these south-east oriented gashes when the sun is shining.
Click on outlined photos to enlarge.
Chris Ruettinger starting the Mini AK Cooler on Knobtop on a descent from 12k in soft snow/slab conditions in late April.
Overall, the snowpack in RMNP is gaining strength under the recent warm weather regime with slow-downs occurring during each cold storm. We've got at least another month of potentially big snowfalls and more avalanche danger along with all of the great powder that comes our way in the springtime.
 A view south across the Continental Divide from the summit of Hallett Peak (12,730') on May 13th, 2011.
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The north face of Chiefshead sitting at the head of the Glacier Gorge with the Speahead in the sun below this massive granite escarpment. Photo taken on May 3rd, 2011.
With stellar conditions for backcountry sliding, the alpine season is just starting to take-off in the high country with mixed routes forming on mostly south-east aspects which will also be the first to melt-off and reveal their gneissy or granite goodness. Chasm View Wall, the Petit and Saber, and Notchtop will be some of the first prime walls to lose their winter coat of snow and ice but it may be until July until the north and east faces reach the same level of dryness.
A good view of the Loch drainage with the Sharkstooth, Stilleto, and Taylor Peak at right and the snowy northeast facing walls of Powell Peak and its North Face Icefields glowing in the morning light of May 4th, 2011.
The east face of Ypsilon Mountain (13,514') with the prominent Donner (L) and Blitzen (R) Ridges holding a cloak of winter snow on May 5th, 2011.
The Notchtop (12,160') and Knobtop (12,331') Peaks with blowing snow loading these lee slopes just east of the Continental Divide. Little Matterhorn is the sub-peak in the center of the photo.
Looking southwest from Gem Lake at Lumpy Ridge towards McHenry's, Thatchtop, and Taylor Peaks on May 10th, 2011.
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Ross Swanson in the middle of the Brain Freeze on the south face of Otis Peak on May 5th, 2011. Photo courtesy of Steve Towne.
This classic mixed route has been in better than average ice and snow conditions for the last few months as the warm conditions on this south-facing cliff have contributed to a melt-freeze cycle of ice growth and snow consolidation.
Getting in and up this 1000+ foot route requires firm conditions in the early morning hours that quickly disintegrate in the heat of the day. Climbing by headlamp would be a prudent way to start this sun-filled route as the weekend warms-up.
Crescent Dome at Lumpy Ridge holds some of the best 5.11 crack pitches on the ridge and cooler conditions are helpful in enjoying these smooth granite climbs.
The east ridge of Mt. Chapin (12,454') on the south end of the Mummy Range above the Fall River Valley in RMNP.
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Mike Arnold assessing the detaching cornice at the climber's right-hand entrance to the Dragontail Couloir on the south face of Flattop Mountain on May 2nd, 2011. Recent reports from the May 8th weekend indicate that this treacherous snow blob is still in place- barely!
 The rocky north face of Flattop Mountain with the western-most Ptarmigan Finger drawn-in and the Ptarmigan Headwall on the Continental Divide divided by sun/shadow lines.
Photo courtesy of Michael Schlauch.
Thomas Armento in the gut of the Mini AK Cooler on Knobtop. The potential for ski mountaineering in RMNP is huge and a small group of backcountry boarders and skiers have been exploring the plumb lines in the park.
Maria figuring out finger jamming on a Friday Outing on the West Ridge in Eldorado Canyon. This is the prime season for climbing in Eldorado and Boulder Canyons before the heat of summer sets-in.
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Most trails in RMNP are currently well trodden with a combination of snowshoe and wind compaction. Beyond the normal winter destinations: Black Lake, Loch Vale, Emerald lake, Flattop Mountain, Longs Peak Trail, and Lake Helene from Bear Lake. Deep snow and/or lack of trail signs will make travel more difficult in places.
Rick Gaukel near the bottom of the run down the south face of Hallett Peak that we found in perfect condition at 9am with Brian Stevenson on a quick morning outing on Friday, May 13th, 2011.
Most of the winter trails do not exactly follow the summer time paths and many wander the wrong direction so best not to assume that any set of tracks in the snow are heading in the right direction.
We just returned from our annual ski trip to the wilds of Alaska where we did some fantastic ski mountaineering in the great Alaska Range. Five nights of glacier camping put us in position for six great days of some of the best powder skiing on the planet.
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Check-out this year's AK trip report here or the expedition info page here.
 
MB on a Crack Climbing Clinic in Eldorado Canyon and a climber at right scales the last pitch of the Yellow Spur - the 6 pitch classic on the Redgarden Wall. Eli is in Eldorado Canyon many days a week for the next four months and available for trainings and rock climing at all levels.
Eli Helmuth is an UIAGM Licensed Mountain Guide and AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine, and
Ski Mountaineering Guide.
Eli offers year-round climbing and skiing outings, seminars, private instruction, and international climbing expeditions. Check-out our guiding home page and the calendar of rock climbing events coming up in the months ahead, including our new five day rock skills camp.
Contact us at:
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
or call 970.744.4898 to plan a fun-filled and educational climbing or skiing outing with Eli Helmuth, RMNP's most accomplished mountain guide and one of the most experienced professionals in the United States.
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Photos below are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.
Consult the CAIC website for current Avalanche Danger forecasts here.
Routes are sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW (1) Avalanche Danger as of 5/12/11 (human caused unlikely)
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Hidden Falls
WI- 3+
IN
still hanging around |
Loch Vale Ice
WI 2-5
M1-8
IN
minimal ice
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Jewel Lake
WI 2-3
IN
mostly snow covered
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MODERATE (2) Avalanche Danger as of 5/12/11 (human caused possible)
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Jaws
WI 3-5
OUT-
but other thinner nearby routes can form in cold snaps.
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Squid
WI 5+ 5.11 (M7)
OUT
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Deep Freeze
WI- 5
OUT - too dry
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MODERATE (2) Avalanche Danger as of 5/12/11 (human caused possible)
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NE Gully
WI 3
OUT
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Necrophilia
WI 5, M5
OUT -
no spring flow to form
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Black Lake Slabs
WI2
IN-
but mostly covered with snow
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MODERATE (2) Avalanche Danger as of 5/12/11 (human caused possible) |
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The Crypt
WI-4
OUT
beware of heat caused avalanches
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Grace Falls
WI 3-5
IN
mostly snow covered |
Columbine Falls
WI3-4
IN
mostly buried
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CONSIDERABLE (3) Avalanche Danger as of 5/12/11 (human caused probable)
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Flying Dutchman
WI-2
OUT-
but will likely form in the next month
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All Mixed Up
WI -3, M2
OUT
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West Gully
WI - 3
IN-
lots of snow |
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CONSIDERABLE (3) Avalanche Danger as of 5/12/11 (human caused probable)
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Martha
WI - 2, M-1
IN
with some soft snow and minimal ice.
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Hallet's Chimney
WI-5, M-4
OUT
wait until next very cold storm
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Field's Chimney
WI-5. M4
OUT
wait until next cold storm
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CONSIDERABLE (3) Avalanche Danger as of 5/12/11 (human caused probable)
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Alexander's Chimney
WI-4, M4
OUT
could reform in spring melt/freeze cycles
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Smear of Fear
WI-5, M5
OUT
maybe in November?
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New Beginnings
WI-5, M5
OUT
too warm at this elevation
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CONSIDERABLE (3) Avalanche Danger as of 5/12/11 (human caused probable)
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The Window
WI-5, M4
OUT
often forms late spring
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Vanquished
WI-5, M4
OUT
could form in spring melt-freeze cycles
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Hot Doggies
WI-5+
OUT
unlikely to form due to hot aspect
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CONSIDERABLE (3) Avalanche Danger as of 5/12/11 (human caused probable)
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East Face, Notchtop
WI-3+, M3
OUT- 95% soft snow climb or skiable w/ 1 rap
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North American Avalanche Danger Scale
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Danger Level
(& Color)
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Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger
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Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger
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Recommended Action
in the Backcountry
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Why |
Where |
What to Do |
LOW (1)
(GREEN)
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Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.
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Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
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(YELLOW)
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Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.
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Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.
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Use caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects.
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CONSIDERABLE (3)
(ORANGE)
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Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.
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Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH (4)
(RED)
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Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.
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Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.
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Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.
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EXTREME (5)
(BLACK)
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Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.
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Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible.
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Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.
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