Ice climbing and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes and ski descents in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth; Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide, AIARE trained avalanche educator and forecaster.
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Warning: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. ClimbingLife, LLC and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports and one can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities. Proceed at your own risk.
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December 7th Conditions for Rocky Mountain National Park:
This last week has been the coldest of the season thus far and on 12/4 we had night time lows of -1F at 9,000'. As a result, the ice is a bit brittle on the surface of many routes.
The ice is mostly drying-up due to the cold, dry air that has been sweeping through the alpine zone at hurricane velocities, causing severe sublimation to what was already a lean year.
It's always windy around here in the winter season, but this last week was ridiculous with wind speeds on the Continental Divide just south of Longs Peak exceeding 80 mph.
It has been a disappointing ice season thus far in RMNP with the Loch Vale area only reaching 25% of typical ice volume at this time. Other testpieces such as the Smear of Fear did not making an appearance this season due to an apparent lack of water.
The south-facing hillsides seem to be doing the best in terms of ice formation and so areas like the Crypt, Squid, and Guides Wall are seeing the most growth recently and there is hope for a decent ice season this winter.
The snowpack has been forming quickly and hopefully backcountry ski season will be in full swing by the New Year!
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Mitch Lasky getting some sticks on a lean Hidden Falls on 11/30/08.
 Ryan Bogus hookin' and bookin' on Mixed Emotions, Loch Vale.
Dry Deep Freeze on the North Face of Thatchtop in RMNP on 12/6/08.
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The Mt. Meeker and Longs Peak Cirque mostly dry on the morning of December 5th, 2008.
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Current Rocky Mountain National Park ice climbing areas IN shape for the week starting 12/8/08:
1. Guide's Wall
Odessa Gorge.
2. Hidden Falls,
Wild Basin.
3. Jewel Lake,
Glacier Gorge.
4. West Gully,
Glacier Gorge.
5. Black Lake Slabs, Glacier Gorge.
6. Columbine Falls, Longs Peak.
7. The Loft Ice,
Longs Peak.
8. Timberline Falls,
Loch Vale.
9. The Crypt,
Loch Vale
10. Bits and Pieces...
Loch Vale Ice Area
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Ryan gets the Mixed Emotions in the Loch Vale on 12/7/08.
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Eli Helmuth and Mike Arnold, while on a 7 day avalanche course, conducted an overall assessment of the snowpack stability for the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park during the week of Dec. 1-7th, 2008. Weather observations, avalanche activity, and snowpack data were gathered in the Glacier Gorge, Andrews, Tyndall, and Ptarmigan valleys during this cold, snowy, and windy week.
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RMNP Snowpack Stability Summary 12/7/08:
+ Snowpack depth @9-12k ranges from dry ground to 1.5m with the average snow covered slopes in the .5m to 1.5m range. (highly variable)
+ There is consistent strong over weak layering in all locations with mostly finger density slabs sitting on thick 4-finger and fist density layers.
+ Depth hoar on the ground is up to 20cm thick. Thin layers of near surface facets in the 50-70cm depth range were consistent failure layers on compression tests.
+ Depth hoar is currently the most worriesome layer in the snowpack as it has been the failure layer in numerous slab avalanches reported in the region this week.
+ Slope cutting and many test slopes gave no results and pit data(x6) gave a maximum 2-3 yellow flags at critical interfaces with avg. CTE results in the 20-30+, Q2 range on 30+ slopes.
+ No indications of slab avalanche activity on any slopes. Minimal slab energy on all slopes tested over 7 days.
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A test pit below the west gully ice route on a very cold Dec. 4th, 2008.
This was one of our deepest pits at 1.5 meters and we needed relatively high confidence in slope strength before traversing onto and digging into this 36 degree , lee-loaded pillow.
Despite the presence of strong over weak layering in all of the pits we studied, the differences in layer density were minimal and grain sizes were relatively uniform in all layers with very small mixed grains (many .2-.5mm facets) being the dominant form.
Depth Hoar (DH) faceted grains were in the 2-3mm size range and most developed on the shallower(50-70cm), north facing slopes in the treeline elevation zone.
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Avalanche danger in the Front Range of Colorado has been forecast by the CAIC to be in the HIGH to CONSIDERABLE range for most of this week due to the significant new snow which fell more heavily in other parts of the region along with the numerous, human triggered slab avalanches that failed on depth hoar layers.
Avalanche danger is highest on north facing slopes at treeline where depth hoar and softer slabs conspire to create a CONSIDERABLE danger.
Currently, most other slopes below and above treeline have a LOW to MODERATE avalanche danger. The steeper loaded slopes that are lacking support due to cliffs, trees etc. will also have a CONSIDERABLE danger rating, which means that human-caused avalanches are probable.
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The Crypt forming nicely on the south face of Otis Peak above the Loch Vale.
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The east face of Thatchtop Mountain and All Mixed Up on Dec. 7th after the wind and snow storms. This route is in its leanest shape in years with ice absent in key sections.
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Photos below are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.
Routes are sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW Avalanche Danger
WI 4 |
WI 2-5
M 1-8 |
WI 2+ to 3 |
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IN thin and wet,
better to wait |
IN
bad year for ice |
IN
50%
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WI 3-5 |
WI 5+ |
WI 4 |
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OUT
forming |
OUTclose to IN |
IN
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Necrophilia
WI 5, M5 |
Deep Freeze
WI5, M5 |
WI 2 |
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OUT
totally dry
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OUTmostly dry |
IN 70% |
Moderate Avalanche Danger
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Grace Falls
WI 3-4
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NE Gully
Thatchtop
WI- 3
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WI-3
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OUT
forming
(early Dec) |
IN
(two WI-3 pitches)
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IN
(crux ice thick) |
WI 3+
M3
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WI 3+
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WI 2, M 1 |
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IN
(THIN ) |
IN
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OUT
(completely dry) |
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Dark Star
WI 4+, M4 |
Hallett's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
Field's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
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OUT
(often IN July |
OUT
soft snow and
chockstone cruxes
(occasionally IN-
May or June) |
OUT
(mostly dry or
snow covered) |
Alexander's Chimney
WI 4, M4 |
WI 5+, M5
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M5, WI5
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OUT
(first two pitches IN,
chockstone and
above dry) |
OUT
not formed
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OUT
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The Window
WI 5, M4
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Vanquished
WI 5, M4
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Hot Doggie
WI 5+ |
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| OUT |
OUT
(mostly dry) |
OUT
50%
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger
WI 3+, M3 |
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IN
(crux 1st pitch
rock slabs)
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| North American avalanche Danger Scale |
Danger Level
(& Color) |
Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger |
Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger |
Recommended Action
in the Backcountry |
| ...WHAT... |
...WHY... |
...WHERE... |
...WHAT TO DO... |
LOW(GREEN) |
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely |
Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
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MODERATE
(YELLOW) |
Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible. |
Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain. |
Use caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects. |
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CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE) |
Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable. |
Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH(RED) |
Natural and human triggered avalanches likely. |
Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles. |
Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above. |
EXTREME(BLACK) |
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain. |
Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. |
Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.
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