Ice climbing and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes and ski descents in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth; Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide, AIARE trained avalanche educator and head guide of ClimbingLife Guides.
feb6_conditions
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February 6th, 2009
Ice
and Ski Report
Rocky
Mountain National Park
It remains one of the worst seasons recent memory for ice
climbing in RMNP and the warm weather that has seen 70's in
the Front Range and 40's in the high country for much of the last few
weeks, has not seemed to help the ice situation one bit.
There might be some snow melt-off on south-facing cliffs that could
freeze if storm conditions are right this weekend.
Anything is possible?
Luckily the skiing has been steadily improving in the high country of
Rocky Mountain National Park and the storm of Jan. 23-25th saw up to
two feet of new snow deposited on treeline slopes where the wind helped
a bit in building up the snowpack in the lee areas which are around 6
feet in depth.
Trails are mostly packed powder into the popular destinations of
Emerald Lake and the Loch Vale, but especially due to wind loading up
high and heat down low, the trails are in a bit of a mess at the moment
and some sort of flotation is advised.
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Natalie Campbell and Chris El-Deiry on a
Backcountry Ski Seminar with Eli Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides.
On this perfect sun-lit day, we did a lap through the Terrain
Park area before visiting the Dragontail Couloir.
ClimbingLife Guides is offering more of these weekend seminar
with scheduled dates in March and April of 2009.
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Natalie
and Chris with the south face of Hallett Peak
glowing in the afternoon light on February 1st, 2009.
The rock on this side of Hallett looked mostly dry,
the boulder problems here in Chaos Canyon were mostly snow covered
(soft landings), and the ski run down the south face of Hallett Peak
(visible behind) looked to be in great shape and we'll likelycheck-out
that descent before avalanche conditions deteriorate again.
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The two feet of powder that arrived in a
concentrated dose on Jan. 23-25th added 50% onto a snowpack that was in
need of some fill and the youth took advantage of this fluffy situation
to get in some boulder hopping and powder turns in the Terrain Park and
Flattop Mountain areas of the National Park. The two photos
above are courtesy of Rio Roman.
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Current
Rocky Mountain National Park ice climbing areas IN shape as of
February6th, 2009:
1.
Guide's Wall
Odessa Gorge.
2. Hidden Falls,
Wild Basin.
3. Jewel Lake,
Glacier Gorge.
4. West Gully,
Glacier Gorge.
5. Black Lake Slabs, Glacier Gorge.
6. Columbine Falls, Longs Peak.
7. The Crypt,
Loch Vale
8. Bits and Pieces...
Loch Vale Ice Area
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Fresh turns on the north face of Otis Peak glades.
Lots of gymnastic chalk showing on the boulders of a very frozen Lake
Haiyaha
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Jeremy Fields taking it easy between laps on the north face of Otis
Peak glades on a ClimbingLife Guides Backcountry Ski Seminar.
Read more about the upcoming ski seminars here.
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Avalanche
Danger on the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park on February
6th, 2009 is overall MODERATE with some pockets of CONSIDERABLE danger
(i.e. Tyndall Glacier, Ptarmigan Glacier).
Although the
snowpack on all aspects
and elevations shows overall strong over weak layering with a well
developed depth hoar layer on the ground, there has been minimal
avalanche activity in RMNP for most of the winter thus far and thick,
hard wind slabs at many elevation ranges have contributed to a
relatively strong mid-winter snowpack in this micro-region.
A very large trigger such as a cornice drop or maybe
cliff- hucking boarder on an unsupported and weak slope could result in
slab avalanches, so backcountry visitors still need to
be savvy about where they travel over snow covered terrain.
We are still months away from having a 'less worries mate'
type of snowpack which can be one of the fruits of spring.
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Throwing up some cold smoke on a fast descent of the
Otis Glades.
Before the storm hits this weekend, avalanche danger on winter routes
such as the Notch Couloir and Kieners on the east face of Longs Peak is
in the MODERATE range, which is relatively solid for this time of year
and the bonus of this warm weather is that routes such as these and
others on the high peaks can be ripe for a 'winter ascent' which is a
sweet fruit to pluck when conditions allow.
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Eli
Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides offers backcountry
skiing and avalanche
seminars that focus on practical skills for minimizing the
risks while maximizing the fun in and around avalanche
terrain.
These
seminars will help you increase your skills in
making
better decisions while taking advantage of the great
mid-winter
skiing and
climbing that Colorado has to offer. Contact Eli at
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
for more information or to register for one of
our Friday ski outings, an avalanche seminar or backcountry
ski
courses.
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Jan. 18th ice report
Photos below are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.
Consult the CAIC website for current Avalanche Danger forecasts here.
Routes are sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW Avalanche Danger
WI 4 |
WI 2-5
M 1-8 |
WI 2+ to 3 |
|
|
|
|
|
IN
(stepped-out)
|
IN
(bad year for ice) |
IN
|
WI 3-5 |
WI 5 |
Deep Freeze
WI5, M5 |
 |
|
|
|
OUT
(will form again?)
|
OUT(1/2 way)
|
OUT
(mostly dry)
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MODERATE Avalanche Danger
Necrophilia
WI 5, M5 |
Crypt
WI-4
|
WI 2 |
 |
|
|
|
OUT
(totally dry)
|
IN
|
IN (70%) |
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Grace Falls
WI 3-4
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NE Gully
Thatchtop
WI- 3
|
WI-3
|
|
|
|
|
IN
(WI4+)
|
IN
(two WI-3 pitches)
|
IN
(crux ice thinning) |
|
Dark Star
WI 4+, M4 |
Hallett's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
Field's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
|
|
|
|
OUT
(often IN July) |
OUT
(soft snow and
chockstone cruxes
Occasionally IN-
May or June) |
OUT
(mostly dry or
snow covered) |
Alexander's Chimney
WI 4, M4 |
WI 5+, M5
|
M5, WI5
|
|
|
|
OUT
(first two pitches IN,
chockstone and
above dry) |
OUT
(not formed)
|
OUT
|
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The Window
WI 5, M4
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Vanquished
WI 5, M4
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Hot Doggie
WI 5+ |
|
|
|
 |
| OUT |
OUT
(mostly dry) |
OUT
(50%)
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger
WI 3+, M3 |
|
|
IN
(crux 1st pitch
rock slabs)
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| North American avalanche Danger Scale |
Danger Level
(& Color) |
Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger |
Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger |
Recommended Action
in the Backcountry |
| ...WHAT... |
...WHY... |
...WHERE... |
...WHAT TO DO... |
LOW(GREEN) |
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely |
Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
|
MODERATE
(YELLOW) |
Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible. |
Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain. |
Use caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects. |
|
CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE) |
Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable. |
Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH(RED) |
Natural and human triggered avalanches likely. |
Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles. |
Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above. |
EXTREME(BLACK) |
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain. |
Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. |
Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.
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