May 2nd, 2009

Snow and Ice  Report

Rocky Mountain National Park  

Temperatures in the Estes Valley on the last day of April were in the low 60's but the first day of May brought a return to winter weather in the high peaks with new snow staring to fall in the early afternoon and accumulations reaching up to 4" above 10k in the Flattop Mountain region of RMNP by late day.  

Strong winds and cohesive new snow began the process of slab formation yesterday.   Although spring is in the air, slab avalanche issues on lee and cross-loaded slopes  are still a real potential.   It was about a year ago that two CMS guides on different sides of Flattop, on the same day were both caught in new snow slab avalanches, luckily without serious injuries.

Snow conditions on May 1st observed during a ski tour up Flattop Mountain to the Continental Divide, down the Corral Couloir and through the Tyndall Gorge to Bear Lake exhibited the full-range of possibilities: Sastrugi, wind crusts, ice crusts over loose powder, refrozen avalanche debris,  mashed potatoes,  'Elmer's Glue' and mostly terrible skiing conditions were encountered between the 12k and 9.5k  elevations.

Due to the current thick cloud cover, it is unlikely that conditions are any better up to the summit of Longs Peak.  

Yesterday's new snow combined with more forecast are likely to create slab avalanche conditions and these in addition to large sloughs that are releasing at all hours (day and night) are creating HIGH avalanche danger in the peaks of RMNP.

Hallett Chimney on the North Buttress of Hallett  on May 1st.  Once the ice re-freezes on this classic mixed route (next Wednesday?), it could be pretty sweet in this almost vertical shaft between the 1st and 2nd Buttresses of this high-quality rock face.  Currently it is vertical slush and a dangerous route choice until freezing conditions return.

Any climber who thinks that Hallett is choss has never climbed in the European Alps , the Canadian Rockies, or the North Cascades mountain ranges.  From my experiences on it and the other faces in RMNP, I believe it is one of the best pieces of gneiss in the park.

Click on photos to enlarge

The CAIC report for this weekend has avalanche danger for the Front Range at MODERATE, but due to the thick cloud cover that has been persistent the last 72 hours, the danger rating for RMNP is currently in the CONSIDERABLE range with pockets of HIGH on lee, cross-loaded, and steeper slopes where large sloughing avalanches and new snow slab potential are the current reality.

The avalanche danger issues currently present are a result of the thick cloud cover over the peaks which effectively blocks the critical release of long-wave radiation which is the key to the re-freezing of the snowpack at night.  

The process of radiation loss is the primary mechanism of snow grain bonding in the spring/summer snowpack and after so many days of non-freezing conditions below 14k, the snowpack is extremely wet, unconsolidated, and prime for large, sloughing avalanches which have been releasing in the D2-3 range (big enough to kill) on steeper terrain, especially on the warmer aspects (S,E,W).  The Dragontail, Dead Elk, Notchtop, and Lambslide Couloirs are examples of terrain that should currently be avoided until we receive multiple clear nights - this refreezing process is so far behind schedule that we could have significant avalanche issues in the weeks to come.

(Above) Looking west towards the snow covered east face of Mount Lady Washington, the north face of Longs (upper right), Notch Couloir and The Loft at far left.  

Due to the wet snowpack, trail conditions on all but  the most well-beaten paths are poor and without flotation, off-trail travel is very difficult  at the moment.  Even the summit of Longs Peak has been below the clouds during this sustained stormy spell and only the strong winds of the last week have helped create some strong slabs that can support bodyweight.  Snow covered routes on even the highest peaks should be avoided at the moment until multiple clear nights can begin to solidify a currently loose, potentially dangerous snowpack.

Alan Angelopulos takes a belay from Kevin Webb on The Bulge (5.6) in Eldorado Canyon on  a ClimbingLife Guides private rock seminar.  We were able to cover and review dozens of techniques from belay methods to anchor building, rappelling, lowering, knots, equipment selection and use, multi-pitch and leading techniques, and even fit-in a four pitch route on a great day in Eldorado Canyon.

Click here for more information and details on the numerous ClimbingLife Guides 2009 Rock Training offerings that start in May and take place every weekend through the end of August.

(Above) The west and north faces of the Twin Sister's  Peak (11,428') on the far eastern side of Rocky Mountain National Park.    The cliffs that cover much of this northern aspect are known as 'The Crags' and  with stunning views of Longs Peak and steep climbs on relatively solid gneiss, this area has become more popular in recent years among locals who seek solitude and unclimbed rock for establishing mostly single-pitch routes of all difficulties.

(Above)  Skinning up the east face of Flattop Mountain on an April 30th ClimbingLife Guides, Friday Ski Tour.  This high elevation loop up to 12k revealed a relatively thick snowpack on this usually dry and windswept plateau.    Although skiing conditions were less than ideal, a raging blizzard on the inital Corral Couloir descent and a range of snow conditions in the Tyndall Gorge made for an excellent adventure and a few super fun mashed potato turns.  

Although we found poor snow conditions on this Friday tour, once the clear skies return and the snowpack solidifies, we will be enjoying great corn snow backcountry skiing and ski mountaineering for some months to come.  Contact Eli at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it for more information or to book a private or group ski outing. 

 
Although it is difficult to see in the flat light conditions photo (right) on our May 1st ski tour up Flattop Mountain and down the Tyndall Gorge, numerous natural avalanches in the D2 range were releasing throughout this cirque, especially nearby Emerald Lake.  

Boot tracks that we observed were very stupidly  heading directly in to large avalanche paths and debris in the center of the Dragontail Couloir where there are many new broken trees laying on the snow surface.

Climbers and skiers should use the best terrain management techniques possible to minimize the risk when climbing and skiing in this still very avalanche prone terrain- which would mean hugging the sides of couloirs and not climbing directly in the middle of an active avalanche path.

Until the snow melts completely, there is always the potential for avalanche issues and in this current regime of cloudy days and nights, the resulting long-wave radiation rebound effect is continuing to 'cook' the snowpack into a dangerous slushee consistency. 

Without the freeze each night caused not by temperature, but clear skies that allow this radiation to release, avi danger will continue to increase.  There is no 'safer' corn cycle without a complete diurnal cycle of melt and refreeze.  We are currently in a melt-only cycle!

Skating across the mostly frozen Emerald Lake on May 1st, 2009.  As well as snowpack issues, the lack of nightime refreezing has kept ice covered lakes and frozen streams soft and travel across these barely frozen surfaces should be carefully assessed or avoided.

  Eli Helmuth is an AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine, and Ski  Guide.   

Eli Helmuth  offers ski tours and private backcountry clinics that focus on practical skills for minimizing the risks while maximizing the fun  in and around avalanche terrain whether you are on skis, board,  snowshoes, or crampons

 Spring and summer trainings and outings in rock  climbing start in late- April of 2009  with clinics, private coaching, and guiding at all levels of rock climbing in Eldorado Canyon, the Flattirons and in Boulder Canyon throughout the spring, summer , and autumn months.  


The west face of the Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.  

North American Avalanche Danger Scale

Danger Level
(& Color)

Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger

Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger

Recommended Action
in the Backcountry

Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.

Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.

Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.

Use caution in steeper terrain and  on certain aspects. 

(ORANGE)

Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.

Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.

Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.

Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.

Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.

Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible. 

Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.