May 25th, 2009

Conditions  Report

Rocky Mountain National Park  

The sun woke me up early on Memorial Day and although it was a late start leaving the house at 6am, I needed to stretch the legs a bit and curiosity as to how the rain had affected conditions up high got me on the road.

Although winds up to 30mph were forecast for the morning, by the time I reached the Longs Peak trailhead at 6:20am it was calm and trail conditions up to Chasm Pass were a mix of dry and firm snow below treeline and 90% dry trail above the trees.

The final snow slope traverse before Chasm Meadows was hard as ice from the mostly clear night, but good steps from the day before allowed me to keep the crampons in the pack a bit longer.

Since there was only a trace amount of new snow up high from the long weekend of clouds and rain, I decided to go for Plan A:  a solo of the Notch Couloir on the east face of Longs.

Chasm Lake was frozen solid except for a small gap on the east shore and a small hop had me jogging across the solid ice to the base of Lambslide where firm neve conditions made for a quick crampon up this approach slope to the Broadway ledge system.  

The snow on Broadway was a bit soft and tricky so I climbed this section slow and deliberate, reaching the summit at 10:40- a little over four hours up and back down to the car by 1pm for a 6.5 hr. round trip.

Dreamweaver Couloir on May 25th, 2009.  This route is in good climbing shape with firm snow and ice starting to form in the crux sections.  Likely it will be in prime conditions through mid-June.

 

Click on photos to enlarge

(Above) This sunrise view from home helped get me out of bed and the clear skies above the peaks and to the west gave me some hope that the long-wave radiation loss was adequate for firm snow conditions on Rocky Mountain National Park's highest peaks.  The snow all morning was very firm except for a short section on Broadway where it was a bit shallow and wet.

Overall the Avalanche Danger in the Longs Peak/Meeker cirque was in the LOW range and due to thick clouds to the east that blocked the sun for most of the day, it stayed LOW in this location for the entire Memorial Day.  

Otherwise, current avalanche danger for the high country of RMNP should be starting LOW each morning, then rising to MODERATE by 11am and CONSIDERABLE by noon or so, primarily on the warmer aspects (south and west).  At lower elevations the avalanche danger will rise more quickly due to warmer temperatures and less solid freezes.  Any nights that have too thick a cloud cover will disrupt this ideal diurnal pattern and if the snowpack does not lose enough heat at night, Avalanche Danger will start higher in the morning and rise more quickly to dangerous levels.  Any significant new snow will potentially form slab layers which can still be reactive in the now "summer season".

(Left) Alexander's Chimney was showing ice in the lower crux  pitches with some thick verglas forming just right of the upper pitches.  (Right) The first pitch of the route 'Joe's Solo' WI-3 was in good shape with thick enough ice for an ascent.

(Above) Two dangerous rappel anchors that I easily removed today - the right one in the Notch Couloir was composed of two poorly placed knifeblade pitons, tied together so that if either of these pins pulled out, the ring would slide down and off of the cord- this anchor came out with one good hand-pull!   

The left anchor was a single angle piton behind a detached block sitting on a ledge just above the first upper exposed eye bolt on the north face- good cracks in solid rock were available just a few feet above this 'non-anchor'.  

Both of these horrible rappel anchors were waiting death traps and a good reminder to check any and all  fixed anchors thoroughly.  Never assume that because some idiot used an anchors once, that you should do the same.  I teach improvised rappel anchor techniques regularly on AMGA courses and in private training and both of these would be described as 'complete shit'.  

(Left above) Broadway was completely snow covered with a slight dusting of new snow from the weekend's storms.  Snow up to 60 degrees steep is covering these ledges and from my perspective as an unroped climber, this was the most butt clenching part of the day with no room for error  unless you're packing a parachute and know how to use it. (I didn't and don't).

(Right) Looking up the Notch Couloir at it's base, the snow in here was again firm neve and mostly frontpointing all the way to the top.  Kieners was mostly filled in with snow except for the first few pitches which were primarily dry rock.

(Left above) In the narrow section of the Notch Couloir with some swirling clouds below and above.  Conditions are currently ideal in this fun snow filled cleft.  

(Right)  Looking down the crux of the North Face (cables) route on Longs Peak with the dihedral eye bolt showing far below.  Although not quite skiable at the moment, the snow and ice conditions were very good on my descent which was around 11am on this day which went from sunshine to clouds to grauple falling from the sky.  

(Above) Looking east from mid-way up the Notch Couloir on Longs Peak with the Teeter Totter Pillar at right, forming the climbers left-hand side of the Notch Couloir.

A final view through the clouds of the Notch, Diamond, and North Face of Longs peaking through thick clouds that have been pouring down rain since about 3pm through midnight on the 25th.  The rain will continue to help with the needed consolidation of the RMNP snowpack and hopefully it will be followed by sunny days and clear nights that are necessary to bring us into an ideal  corn snow cycle.

  Eli Helmuth is an AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine, and Ski  Guide.   

 Spring and summer trainings and outings in rock  climbing start in late- April of 2009  with clinics, private coaching, and guiding at all levels of rock climbing in Eldorado Canyon, the Flattirons and in Boulder Canyon throughout the spring, summer , and autumn months.  


The west face of the Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.  

North American Avalanche Danger Scale

Danger Level
(& Color)

Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger

Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger

Recommended Action
in the Backcountry

Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.

Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.

Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.

Use caution in steeper terrain and  on certain aspects. 

(ORANGE)

Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.

Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.

Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.

Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.

Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.

Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible. 

Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.