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May 19th, 2010
Snow and Ice
Conditions Report
Rocky Mountain National Park
The winter weather has taken a break in the high country of RMNP, and with a few days of sunshine and clear nights the south and west facing couloirs have quickly come into corn shape.
The combination of new snow, colder weather, and a good melt-freeze cycle has created a solid pattern of ice and firm snow formation in the high country. These ice conducive conditions have thus far favored warmer aspects with south, east, and west facing aspects at the higher elevations doing the best.
The North Buttress of Hallett Peak glowing in the early morning hours.
Cornices are starting to release as the heat of spring brings-on the 'shedding season' that will continue for the next month and reach peak intensity in the coming weeks.
Avalanche danger will generally decrease sufficiently at night to a LOW danger rating with cloudy nights speeding up the daily transition into CONSIDERABLE or HIGH danger by noon each day on terrain >35 degrees.
Skinning up to the Loft between Longs and Meeker, with solid snow coverage above Chasm Lake .
Photo D.D.
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Brennan Metzler in the middle of the Keplinger Couloir on the south face of Longs Peak, Colorado on May 16, 2010.
Photo courtesy of Derek Drechsel.
South and west faces will form and melt most quickly and need to be climbed before sunlight reaches these routes, creating high probability rock and ice fall.
Super early alpine starts and lighter packs or an overnight stay will likely be necessary to get up and down the longer approach routes before the hot part of the day.
Notchtop with threatening cornices hanging over the southern and eastern slopes. A very clear night would be key to making an ascent of these faces. Climbing at night is recommended as the sunrise heat can be sufficient to release large avalanches or a potential chunk of cornice.
Click on outlined photos to enlarge.
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 Kicking steps up the Homestretch on Longs Peak with the summit visible just 400' away. Photo D.D.
Looking into the upper ice section of Brain Freeze on the south face of Otis Peak.
Photo courtesy of Oliver Deshler.
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(Above) Jarrett Luttrell in the middle of the Keplinger Couloir on a complete descent of Longs Peak on snowboard. This was Jarrett's 54th and final 14er descent on snowboard, making him the first person to complete this feat.
Photo D.D.
(Above) Looking north across the Loft with the Beaver and upper south face of Longs Peak above the snowboarder.
Photo D.D.
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(Above) Hidden Valley Ski Area is filled-in well and as Trailridge road is open to Rainbow Curve.
The north face of Arrowhead with the Hourglass Couloir slicing the center of this granite buttress.
Photo courtesy Kevin Landolt.
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(Above) Ice in the middle section of Brain Freeze on the south face of Otis Peak in RMNP in early May. Photo O.D.
Alpine routes such as Martha are coming into great climbing shape at the moment and soon the Dreamweaver and Flying Dutchman should be sporting ice in the crux sections and firm neve in the mornings. Currently they are more skiable than climbable, but that will change quickly under a warm weather regime.
Hallett's Chimney has a good chance of coming into ice shape soon as do the other south-facing couloirs on Otis Peak and the east face of Notchtop.
Remember that clear nights are key to long-wave radiation loss that helps cause the strongest cooling patterns in the mountains. Cloudy nights effectively block this radiation release and the resulting snow and ice conditions are rarely favorable when the stars are obscured. |
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