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Ice climbing and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes and ski descents in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth; Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide, AIARE trained avalanche educator and owner of ClimbingLife Guides.
Warning: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. ClimbingLife, LLC and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports and one can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities. Proceed at your own risk, plan for the best outcome and be prepared for the worst.
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May 12th, 2009
Ice and Ski Report
Rocky Mountain National Park
Yesterday, I was awakened by the bright moon shining through the bedroom windows and with clear skies, I left home at 5am to the Longs Peak trailhead to see how conditions were shaping up in the steepest cirque in the park.
Leaving the trailhead at 5:20am, trail conditions were ideal with packed frozen snow through the forest and with no wind and moderate temperatures, it was smooth sailing to treeline and there, the trail follows the creekbed along the Alpine Brook up to the Jim's Grove trail junction.
I reached Chasm pass at 6:40 after doing a bit of filming and was standing on Chasm Lake around 7:15am under blue skies and low winds with gusts up to 20mph.
Up to 6 inches of new snow had fallen in the last 24hrs. but strong winds had sculpted and hardened much of this new accumulation and I was easily able to make it to the base of the route without going further than ankle deep for a few sections, although I did get my one boot wet stepping onto the lake ice.
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The Flying Buttress and start of Dreamweaver on May 11th, 2009.
Click on photos to enlarge
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The east face of Longs Peak at 6:06am reflecting the sunrise on May 11th, 2009
My original plan had been to potentially climb the Martha Couloir to the top of Mt. Lady Washington, then traverse over and ascend the north face of Longs, descend the Loft, climb Dreamweaver and then head home. But snow conditions on the North Face looked a bit sketchy with a large slab visible in profile from Chasm Lake and after seeing a descent sized slab avalanche at the base of the east face, I decided that avi danger was at least CONSIDERABLE if not higher on the north face and so avi avoidance was a priority on this somewhat wintery morning.
This naturally released slab in this new snow layer would indicate a high probability of human triggered avalanches on similar terrain which would include the Loft descent, Lambslide Couloir, and the North Face of Longs, so after climbing Martha I opted to descend to the east and directly down to Chasm Lake which was easy enough and avoided the Camel Couloir where I have encountered a more reactive and loaded snowpack in the past.
I was back at Chasm Lake again by 8:30am after stopping 100' short of the summit of Mt. Lady Washington due to now high winds and it was only due to constant sloughing in the couloir, caused by spindrift accumulations releasing under a constant 30mph wind that created this danger for the unroped climber. Not wanting to get knocked off the route, I hung-out below the couple of steeper ice steps and constrictions waiting for lulls in the wind when I could sprint past these exposed spots- a bit more excitement than I had planned and a condition that did not start until mid-climb. The conditions overall on Martha were excellent with solid ice and firm snow for the entire route. This is likely the best shape this classic moderate route has been in all year and it is highly recommended in its current state.
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(Left) The North Chimney and Field's Chimney on the Lower East Face of Longs Peak looked thick with snow although based on all of the other ice forming on Longs, I suspect that there could be some ice forming in Fields as well. There were indications of major sloughing activity at the base of the Flying Dutchman and Lambslide and no doubt the recent storm activity with abundant new snow has kept the hazard high until recently on these steep north-facing slopes.
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Current Rocky Mountain National Park ice climbing areas IN shape as of May 12th, 2009:
1. Martha Mount Lady Washington
2. Jewel Lake,
Glacier Gorge.
3. Black Lake Slabs, Glacier Gorge.
4. ??
A new, naturally triggered slab avalanche on the Mills Glacier at the base of the lower east face of Longs Peak on 5/11/09.
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Looking up the Martha Couloir on May 11th, 2009. Firm snow and thick ice on the cruxes made for an enjoyable climb and a descent to the east avoided most avalanche danger in this cirque.
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The start of the Martha Couloir on May 11th, 2009. The current warm days and clear night weather pattern should continue to feed ice formation and neve snow conditions in this route. The key to safety in this narrow cleft is to be up and out of it before the sun reaches inside which means finishing the climb by 8am at the latest in these springtime conditions. Falling ice and potentially rock are the problem when this warm spot heats up in the sun.
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The upper narrow section of Dreamweaver showing fresh water ice forming on the sides and flowing water which should help feed ice formation on this classic route.
Although my calves were a bit tired from the sprints in Martha (and hanging out on frontpoints for sustained periods while sloughs went overhead) I decided to continue up Dreamweaver to see how conditions were there and with the Loft looking pregnant with new snow and likely lurking slabs, I decided to descend down the east ridge of Mount Meeker which had LOW avi danger and through the Iron Gates for a safer loop back to Chasm Meadow where I had stashed my snowshoes for the walk home.
The lower section of Dreamweaver was the crux for me with shin deep step kicking in places but the snow quickly firmed up and by the time the couloir narrow, it was mostly firm snow, not quite neve, but solid enough for cramponing on the surface and so the climbing went faster at this point. I reached the summit of Meeker by 10:30am and the descent of the east ridge was mellow with great views and the wind had calmed down completely by this point so I took my time enjoying the great views from this exposed summit ridge. There is no ice yet in the Dreamweaver and I expect it will be a couple of more weeks at minimum until it is in ideal ice and neve snow shape.
I would have been back at the car by 1pm if it weren't for running into some friends in Chasm Meadows and we enjoyed lots of laughs and good conversing in the warm weather that resulted when the winds slowed to a stop. Trail conditions were soupy by the time we said goodbye, and I was happy to have the snowshoes for the 1.5 hr. walk back to the trailhead and a short drive to Dave's Barbecue in Estes which has become my favorite post-climb spot for great food and Guinness on draft- could it get any better?
 
Fresh steps up the lower Dreamweaver Couloir (left) and looking into the middle narrow section where a bit of soft snow at the chockstones created some interesting dry-tool cruxes. Ice screws or pickets would be completely worthless on this route in current conditions but there are many cracks to accommodate cams which fit much better in the mostly parallel cracks of Mt. Meeker and Longs Peak.
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Although the warm weather of March helped to condense and strengthen the snowpack at most elevations and aspects in Rocky Mountain National Park, the big snows of April added a lot of new layers and colder conditions have persisted at the highest altitudes.
There is currently CONSIDERABLE avalanche danger on these high elevation aspects (steep and lee) with LOW to MODERATE avalanche danger in the mornings on warmer aspects (south and west) until about noon when the sun will create higher avalanche danger in the form of sloughs which could be quite large in all of this new snow.
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The Dreamweaver and Loft on May 11th, 2009.
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Looking down from the summit ridge of Mount Meeker onto the Loft and south face of Longs Peak. Great snow coverage on the Homestretch would indicate that the Kleplinger Couloir is in great shape for a ski descent and the Trough Couloir is likely in great skiing shape as well, although a late day descent might be ideal to take advantage of corn conditions on this 2,500' couloir.
Skiing the north face of Longs or the Lambslide should be questioned at the moment due to the newly formed and cold slabs perched on unsupported terrain, and just because someone got away with it last week does not mean that it was a smart idea (luck does not mean good judgment) and with recent natural avalanche activity in this cirque in the form of cold slabs and warm sloughing, we are far from the 'summer corn season' which can make such ascents and descents a lower risk proposition.
A close-up of the upper east face of Longs Peak with the Kieners route following the snow slope just above the Diamond at far right and then after the 'step-around' move, taking the right-hand skyline to the summit of Longs Peak (14,256').
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Hallett Chimney on May 6th was still not "IN" shape although we climbed a couple of interesting pitches through vertical snow that required more than an hour of wet tunneling and a mixed pitch through 5.7+ rock (M2-3) to the right of the ice pitch (at left). Falling ice from the Love Route overhangs was a dangerous annoyance and so we rappelled after only a couple of pitches of climbing. Water was flowing under the snow and with some clear nights and maybe a cold front, this ephemeral classic could still come into shape. Fore more information and beta on the route last week, check-out Fabrizio Zangrilli's excellent blog here.
What do you do when you have no material other than the rope to make an anchor- above is one example. The lower clove hitch attaches to two cams in opposing cracks. The left-hand strand connects 'Yosemite style" to another cam and hammered in nut to create a very solid four-piece anchor. The red sling is just for drying out gloves and cams after two wet pitches of 'ice' climbing.
Mike Arnold going bare handed on the second pitch of Hallett Chimney on May 6th, 2009.
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 A view of the Flying Dutchman Couloir, Lambslide Couloir, Alexander's Chimney and the southern Broadway ledge system on May 11th, 2009.
Eli Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides offers ski tours and private backcountry clinics in Rocky Mountain National Park that focus on practical skills for minimizing the risks while maximizing the fun in and around avalanche terrain whether you are on skis, board, snowshoes, or crampons
These seminars can help increase your skills in making better backcountry decisions while taking advantage of the great mid-winter skiing and climbing that Colorado has to offer. Contact us at:
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for more information or to register for one of our Friday ski outings, an avalanche seminar, a backcountry ski course, or a private ski tour with Eli Helmuth, Rocky Mountain National Park's most experienced mountain and ski guide.
Eli is now offering weekly clinics in all aspects of rock climbing, from the subtleties of crack jamming, to top-rope anchoring, trad leading seminars, rock rescue skills, and introductory guiding clinics so that you can learn guiding skills without having to take a 10-day long course. Click here for more information on ClimbingLife Guides rock clinics and seminars for 2009.
 
Eli is a certified rock, alpine, and ski mountaineering guide with 10-years of experience as an AMGA guide trainer in rock and alpine guiding. He has been an AMGA exam-certified Rock Guide since 1991, before most currently certified rock guides even started their climbing careers. Learn from the guy who trains the other U.S. guides and you''ll get the most value for your money.
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Photos below are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.
Consult the CAIC website for current Avalanche Danger forecasts here.
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Routes are sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:
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LOW Avalanche Danger as of 5/11/09
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Hidden Falls
WI- 3+
IN - but likely too soft
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Loch Vale Ice
WI 2-5
M1-8
OUT
not worth the hike
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Jewel Lake
WI 2-3
IN
mostly snow covered
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LOW Avalanche Danger as of 5/11/09
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Jaws
WI 3-5
OUT
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Squid
WI 5
OUT
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Deep Freeze
WI- 5
OUT
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LOW Avalanche Danger as of 5/11/09
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Columbine Falls
WI 3-4
OUT
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Necrophilia
WI 5, M5
OUT
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Black Lake Slabs
WI2
IN
mostly snow covered
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MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 5/11/09
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The Crypt
WI-4
OUT
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Grace Falls
WI 3-5
IN |
NE Gully
WI3
OUT
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MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 5/11/09
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Flying Dutchman
WI-2
IN
Short ice crux
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All Mixed Up
WI -3, M2
OUT
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West Gully
WI - 3
OUT
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MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 5/11/09
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Martha
WI - 2, M-1
IN
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Hallett's Chimney
WI-5, M-4
OUT
Climbable and may be shaping up.
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Field's Chimney
WI-5. M4
OUT
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 5/11/09
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Alexander's Chimney
WI-4, M4
OUT
Icing up
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Smear of Fear
WI-5, M5
OUT
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New Beginnings
WI-5, M5
OUT
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 5/11/09
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The Window
WI-5, M4
OUT
Icing up
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Vanquished
WI-5, M4
OUT
Maybe soon?
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Hot Doggies
WI-5+
OUT
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 5/11/09
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East Face, Notchtop
WI-3+, M3
OUT
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North American Avalanche Danger Scale
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Danger Level
(& Color)
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Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger
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Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger
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Recommended Action
in the Backcountry
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Why |
Where |
What to Do |
LOW
(GREEN) |
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.
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Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
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(YELLOW)
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Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.
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Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.
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Use caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects.
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CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE)
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Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.
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Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED)
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Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.
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Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.
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Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.
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EXTREME
(BLACK) |
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.
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Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible.
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Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.
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