<span class="mceItemHidden">july2 2010</span>
.jpg)
Up-to-date information on alpine routes, backcountry skiing, and trail conditions for Longs Peak and Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Snow conditions and avalanche danger are forecast by Eli Helmuth, an AMGA certified rock, alpine, and ski mountaineering guide and owner of ClimbingLife Guides; a year-round guide service based in Estes Park offering worldwide mountain trips and local seminars in the climbing and skiing arts.
Warning: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. ClimbingLife, LLC and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports and one can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities. Proceed at your own risk, plan for the best outcome and be prepared for the worst.
|
|
July 4th, 2010
Conditions Report
Rocky Mountain National Park
Summer has finally made it to this part of the Colorado Rockies and although summer may be short at these elevations (9k-14k), it sure is sweet.
An ascent of the North Face (aka Cables) route on Longs Peak on June 30th found quickly changing conditions from what has been constant snow cover for the last 8 months.
The only snow remaining on the trail to Chasm Lake is on the final slope below Mt. Lady Washington, before Chasm Meadows. The trail to the Boulderfield is currently snow-free, but with all of the rapid snowmelt, it can be very wet with streams as the trail nears the Boulderfield campsites.
Camping is now dry in the Boulderfield and Jim's Grove. Most of the bivy's below and beside the Diamond (Chasm Lake and View) are filled-in with snow so maybe bring a shovel if you plan on sleeping in these climber bivy spots.
|
Climbing on Hallett's North Buttress before the holiday weekend. Snowfields still exist on the approach to this closest to the trailhead alpine wall in RMNP. The rock is 99% dry however and on hotter days, this afternoon shaded location is one of my favorite climbing walls.
Click on photos to enlarge |
The East Face of Longs Peak on July 1st 2010. Clear nights result in hard neve snow in the mornings until mid-day and so minimal crampons are very helpful to get up the somewhat steep (with a bad runout) slopes at the base of the North Chimney.
Snow conditions on the lower slopes of the North Face are rock solid neve that has been freezing solid due to the very clear nights and dry air we've had for more than a week solid. There were a few 'punchy' sections of snow climbing on the upper slopes where there were more rocks near the surface.
Closer to the rappel bolts on the North Face, there is a 2-4" thick layer of ice underneath the snow that is becoming exposed and this slick layer can increase the fall potential, even with crampons and climbing ability so beware.
|
|
The Skypond Cirque in late June shows minimal snow on the south-facing slopes and an ice-free lake. Some of the bivy spots are still snow-filled but camping on snow is less impact and a flatter bed if you decide to choose this option.
The south face of Nothtop Spire still has some afternoon cornice risk in the descent gulley, but the routes on this face including the Spiral (7) and South Ridge(10) are high quality alpine rock routes with less crowds than their better known neighbors such as the Petit and Hallett.
 
(Above left) The mostly dry Diamond with some steep snow still sitting in pockets on Broadway and in the North Couloir and upper Kieners.
(Above right) The Lambslide Couloir and southern edge of the Mills Glacier on July 1st.
(Above) The north face of Mt. Meeker as viewed from the summit of Longs Peak. Reports on Dreamweaver have it quickly melting-out with little snow and ice left in the crux sections. The lower slopes of this classic climb are reportedly firm and make for great cramponing. Typically rock protection is most helpful on this route and in current conditions, a set of cams would likely be much more helpful then ice screws or pickets. The Flying Buttress rock route, which follows the prominent prow in the lower center of the photo is dry and ready for some chalk and sticky shoes to return for a while.
Current avalanche danger overall for the high country of RMNP is starting LOW each morning, then rising to MODERATE on the warm afternoons with most of the danger being in the form of D1 sized loose snow avalanches (point release) in the upper 6" of the snowpack. Although any avalanche activity other than cornice collapses (think Y-Couloir) will likely be small enough not to bury an individual, if you are unroped or unanchored on exposed terrain, a D1 sized avalanche could launch you over the edge. (Broadway, Kieners, North Face of Longs, etc.)
The crux 'reach-around' move on the exposed southern end of Broadway, Longs Peak.
(Above) The still snow covered Homestretch leading to the summit of Longs via the Keyhole Route. Current snow cover on this route is minimal and can be avoided except for a few body lengths in less exposed spots and it has been getting busy up there the last month with such great weather, Afternoon thunderstorms have started to form early and are already a constant part of the daily weather patterns.
The Keyhole provides easy passage through the otherwise steep north ridge of Longs Peak. An ascent of the Keyhole Ridge (III 5.7) is a highly recommended route to the summit of RMNP's highest peak. This precipitous ridge crest makes for a very interesting climb that has many different variations of difficulty depending on one's desires and route-finding ability.
(Above) Lumpy Ridge with the Needles (10,068') at far left and Sheep Mountain at center rear of this rocky terrain that is much beloved by climbers. Early starts will help beat the heat on these now warm south-facing hillsides as well as to hopefully avoid the unfortunate lightning consequences that are now a constant threat each early afternoon (2-3pm).
|
|
(Above) Participants in the June 5-6th Guiding Skills Seminar with ClimbingLife Guides spend some time on Sunday afternoon dangling from ropes while practicing lead-climber rescue at the base of the Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon, CO.
This weekend seminar is offered again on Aug. 7-8th and enrollment is limited to just four participants so that the educational aspects of this seminar can be maximized.
Learn more about this seminar here.
This experienced group of climbers were able to learn and practice a host of skills including: guide anchoring, multi-rope belaying, lowering, guided rappelling, multi-pitch guiding, rock rescue, short-roping, and multi-climber strategies.
Other weekend clinics and seminars upcoming this summer include:
Friday Skills Clinics (movement and techniques coaching every Friday)
Crack Climbing Clinics (master the art of jamming)
Rock Rescue Clinics
(know what to do and how to deal with an accident)
Trad Leading Seminars
(become a more skilled trad leader)
|
Learn and practice the skills on our clinics and seminars to make your summer Diamond, Petit, Yellow Spur, or Spearhead routes a safer, more efficient, and smoother experience.
|
|
 Eli Helmuth is an AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine, and Ski Guide. 
Contact us at:
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
for more information or to register for one of our Friday Rock Skills Clinics, a Guiding Skills Seminar, Rock Rescue Clinics, Crack Climbing Clinics, and Trad Leading Seminars that are held regularly in Eldorado and Boulder Canyons. Or arrange a private outing to fit your schedule and specific training goals
Now in his 22nd year of full-time rock and mountain guiding, Eli also has 11-years of experience as an AMGA guide trainer in rock and alpine guiding.
Eli is equally adept at working with beginners along with climbers of all abilities and experience levels. Eli enjoys climbing the many classics in Eldorado and Boulder Canyons- please join him for a day or weekend to increase your abilities on rock and safety skills on rock and mountain terrain.
Spring and summer trainings and outings in rock climbing include one-day clinics, private coaching, and guiding at all levels of rock climbing in Alaska, Eldorado Canyon, the Flattirons and in Boulder Canyon throughout the spring, summer , and autumn months until we head to the Andes in September and November for more great climbing trips to Peru and Ecuador .
The west face of the Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. The Yellow Spur (III 5.10) follows the right-hand skyline of these cliffs, finishing on the pointed summit at far right.
|
|
North American Avalanche Danger Scale
|
|
Danger Level
(& Color)
|
Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigge
|
Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger
|
Recommended Action
in the Backcountry
|
| What |
Why |
Where |
What to Do |
|
LOW
(GREEN)
|
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.
|
Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
|
(YELLOW)
|
Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.
|
Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.
|
Use caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects.
|
|
CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE)
|
Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.
|
Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED)
|
Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.
|
Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.
|
Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.
|
EXTREME
(BLACK)
|
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.
|
Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible.
|
Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.
|
|
