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Up-to-date information on ice, alpine routes, and backcountry skiing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Snow conditions and avalanche danger are forecast by Eli Helmuth, an AMGA certified rock, alpine, and ski mountaineering guide and owner of ClimbingLife Guides.
Warning: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. ClimbingLife, LLC and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports and one can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities. Proceed at your own risk, plan for the best outcome and be prepared for the worst.
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January 17th, 2011
Snow and Ice Report
Rocky Mountain National Park
It's been a tough year for ice climbers in the Front Range of Colorado with warm temperatures preventing ice formation in the lower altitude canyons (Boulder, Big Thompson, Clear Creek) until just in the last week. Ice is currently fat in all of these spots including the Flatirons which often ice up for a week or two each year.
Last week's cold spell has improved the ice situation at the lower elevations, and even in RMNP there will be some ice growth in those locations where water is still flowing- Jaws in the Fern Canyon and nearby flows on these south-facing cliffs should hold a bonanza of new ice growth.
The Guides Wall and New Beginnings area above Lake Helene should also be seeing some positive growth in the current melt-freeze cycle on these relatively lower elevation south-facing escarpments.
Most other ice in RMNP will see severe sublimation in the colder temp.'s and drying winds. The Squid seems to be shrinking daily despite some attention from mixed climbers who are protecting the rocky start with #3 and #4 camalots.
Due to very strong wind compaction of snow surfaces in the Alpine Zone (above treeline), travel has been possible off-trail without flotation in wind-exposed locations. Crampons have even been necessary for ascending steeper sastrugi slopes formed by 70+mph winds that raked the high peaks at the beginning of the New Year.
Snow depths are above average for this time of year in RMNP and although less than 40" are sitting on the ground at Bear Lake, the coverage above Dream Lake and in the upper Tyndall Gorge are greater than 2m and in many places, more than 4-5m of snow are already on the ground.
Skiing conditions are overall excellent due to this thick coverage on all but west aspects and on the Continental Divide where high winds almost always prohibit snow accumulation in the winter months.
Pete Lardy mixing it up at the Bear's Den, RMNP.
Lee Rittenmeyer studying the strong over weak layering in a test pit on a Level 1 Refresher Course in RMNP.
Eli will be teaching another 1-day Avi Refresher on January 31st for backcountry enthusiasts looking to increase their understanding and decision-making abilities in avalanche terrain.
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Ryan Bogus figuring out the moves before his redpoint FA of "Furry Thang" at the Bear's Den, RMNP, CO. This bolted line clocks in somewhere in the M8-9 range and a stick clip is recommended for the overhanging start.
A lack of ice is not a deterrent to climbing with tools and crampons and this mostly drytooling cliff in RMNP has been a long-watched but likely unclimbed crag - one of thousands in the vast klettergarden of the Rockies.
Click on outlined photos to enlarge.
A close-up of the upper east face of Longs Peak with typical snow coverage on Broadway, the Notch Couloir, and upper Kieners. Photo courtesy of Michael Arnold.
Traveling through unsupported, lee loaded, and steeper snow slopes such as these above the Diamond and Broadway is a dicey proposition in regard to avalanche danger. Mid-winter on the east face of Longs is the most tenuous time of year for travel on this exposed terrain- a rope and many solid anchor points are recommended if traveling on these snowslopes.
Eli enjoying some lightweight powder in the Dead Elk Couloir of RMNP on a Friday Ski & Board Outing. These outings take place almost every Friday in RMNP from January until we go to Alaska in mid-April.
Photo courtesy of Fast Froggy.
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A view from the Boulderfield of the east and north faces of Longs Peak on December 31st, 2010.
In the higher elevations of RMNP, constant winds up to 80mph have created a mix of conditions from wind scoured slopes (above) , to wind-loaded areas like Broadway and the Lambslide. Pencil hard layers 10' deep immediately adjacent to grass and bare ground are common above 12,000' where the Avalanche Danger ranges from LOW to HIGH, often in close proximity. 'Highly Variable' is the key to understanding the snow coverage between 9k and 14k in these alpine regions.
The Dragontail Couloir and adjacent terrain have a solid base to start 2011, with snow depths on these slopes ranging from 2-5 meters of pencil hard slabs and thick avalanche debris from these constantly shedding, and mostly well-supported slopes. Upper snowpack issues caused by new snow and fresh slabs along with sloughing during periods of heavy snowfall tend to be the primary avalanche concerns in this popular mid-winter ski/board terrain.
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 The Squid was at its fattest during the holidays but is slowly sublimating to almost certain non-existence in the near future. Despite its thin and not fully formed nature, some Estes locals have been making regular ascents armed with larger cams and a sense of adventure.
 The Corral Couloir has typical better stability and thick coverage in this January descent from the summit of Flattop Mountain (12,324').
This couloir is one of my favorite mid-winter descent routes into the Tyndall Gorge due to its south-facing aspect and generally good skiing conditions. The imposing cornice on the west side should not be ignored and during hotter conditions or heavy snow, staying away from this beast is a safer bet.
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Martha is one of my favorite moderate mixed routes in RMNP and in the last La Nina winter of 99/2000 I guided it for CMS a dozen times from December through February as it was in great climbing condition almost every week.
In warmer mid-winter temperatures with adequate melt/freeze cycles common on south aspects, this route often has firmer snow with sections of water ice and it's often protected from the west wind, being nestled in this relatively warm alcove.
Heads down while skiing into another snowstorm on Dream Lake in RMNP. This lake has actually been more snow covered than usual but the recent winds have scoured the surface into a sustrugi shipwreck of a path.
The snowpack in this 'timberline' area tends to hold some of the higher avalanche danger in the park due to cross-loaded , tree-pocked, convex rolling, and steeper (35-40) terrain. Pits along the base of this north-facing escarpment have located 70-90cm pencil density slabs sitting on fist density layers with moderate Q2-3 failures- scary stuff. This mid-pack instability might be less likely to trigger due to the stiff and thick slab but especially in unsupported, convex, tree-riddled terrain it could release into a fast moving slab avalanche.
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Chasm Lake and the east face of Longs Peak on January 8th before the Jan. 8-9 upslope storm that actually deposited minimal amounts in the RMNP high country.
Photo courtesy of Michael Arnold.
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On December 22nd, Francis Kelsey of Boulder (via Chamonix) made a solo ascent and ski descent of the Dreamweaver Couloir on Mt. Meeker (13,952') - likely the first mid-winter descent on skis of this route and likely one of the first without use of a rope.
A view from the middle of the route, looking up the upper Dreamweaver Couloir. Francis downclimbed through a couple of the dry and rocky parts of the couloir but skied the majority of this 500m chute.
Francis Kelsey in a self portrait, having completed the potential first ski descent of the Dreamweaver Couloir.
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A view down the lower slopes at the beginning of the Dreamweaver Couloir on the North Face of Mt. Meeker in RMNP. Usually done as a spring (May/June) couloir and mixed route, it was in unusually firm and climbable conditions during the Christmas Holiday time period.
High winds since the New Year have stripped much of the snow off of these wind exposed slopes.
The wind loaded slopes and sublimating ice of All Mixed Up in early January 2011 conditions. The slopes above, in the middle, and potentially below this route often contain higher avalanche danger due to the unsupported slopes above and constant wind loading which has been greater than average this season.
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 (Above) These frozen falls below Chasm Lake (the overflow) are fatter than usual and a better alternative to the snow covered ice and avi danger in the Loft or at Columbine Falls.
Photo courtesy of Michael Arnold.
(Above) The West Gully at left in this photo is some of the most consistent forming and larger chunks of ice in RMNP, albeit with one of the longer approaches in RMNP. The excellent Stoneman at center and the yellow curtain to the right have been sublimating since they formed in early December but with warmer weather and some melt-freeze action, they've made a rebound and were even fatter as seen this recent weekend.
(Above) Randy and Adrian paying the price of admission into the spectacular Dead Elk Couloir on a ClimbingLife Guides Avalanche Field Seminar on Jan. 8th, 2011. These seminars are designed to be small group outings where team members can practice and hone the critical skills involved in backcountry decision making in avalanche terrain. Our Level 1 Avi Refresher is another great option for getting more field time with an IFMGA Guide and Avalanche Instructor in the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park.
 
(Above Left) SLG Apprentice Guide Rick Gaukel drytooling up a steep corner system in RMNP. (Right) Mike Caputo plotting his tool removal from the steep start to the Furry Thang at the Bear's Den.
 
(Left) A view from near the top of Hidden Valley on Jan. 10th, showing a sastrugi snow surface formed by the high winds that rake many of these above treeline locations in RMNP. As always, we recommend checking the CAIC website daily to follow changes in the snowpack and for the most current danger ratings and avalanche activity across the state of Colorado.
(Above right) A small soft slab avalanche that I ski cut at the entrance to our first run in the Terrain Park of RMNP in late Dec., 2010. This 10" deep slab was deposited overnight by strong winds which fill-in these north-facing, cross-loaded open areas at treeline; in this case when only 5 inches of new snow had fallen overnight.
Ski cutting is one of the skills we review on my Avalanche Field Seminars which are designed to supplement the curriculum of a Level 1 Course by providing a more field-based and hands-on approach to understanding and managing the risk of avalanches. All of these courses take place in RMNP in small groups with personalized instruction from Eli Helmuth.
 
Eli has been spending one evening a week at Movement Gym and Fitness in Boulder, CO - unfortunately not climbing enough on their superb walls but with a table in the Front Lobby showing off some of the equipment involved in Backcountry Skiing and Split-Boarding.
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Demonstrations of the new BCA- Float 30 Avalanche Airbag Pack will be taking place weekly from January through April, so we should become very proficient at deploying and repacking these potentially life-saving devices. Although newer in use than beacons, ABS packs have a proven 98% survival rate when deployed versus a 40% survival rate with beacons- I'm very happy to be using an ABS Pack this ski season!
 
Eli Helmuth is an UIAGM Licensed Mountain Guide and AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine, Ski Mountaineering Guide.
Eli Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides offers ski tours and private backcountry Avalanche Seminars and Backcountry Skiing Clinics that focus on practical skills for minimizing the risks while maximizing the fun in and around avalanche terrain.
Whether you are on skis, board, snowshoes, or crampons, if you've already taken an avalanche course and want more practical training, check-out our Level 1 Refresher Clinic which is a mountain based day in the peaks of RMNP, dedicated to increasing your abilities in making decisions in avalanche terrain.
Contact us at:
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or call 970.744.4898 to plan a fun-filled and educational mountain outing with Eli Helmuth, RMNP's most experienced mountain guide.
Check-out photos from our recent trip to Ecuador here for climbs on the mighty volcanoes which flank the Altiplano, between the Amazon Basin and Galapagos Islands of this exotic Andean nation. We'll be returning to Ecuador in November and to the great Andes of Peru in September of 2011- join us!
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Photos below are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.
Consult the CAIC website for current Avalanche Danger forecasts here.
Routes are sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW Avalanche Danger as of 1/17/11 (human caused unlikely)
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Hidden Falls
WI- 3+
IN -getting beat up |
Loch Vale Ice
WI 2-5
M1-8
barely IN- bad year
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Jewel Lake
WI 2-3
IN
and busy
with guided groups.
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LOW Avalanche Danger as of 1/17/11 (human caused unlikely)
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Jaws
WI 3-5
IN , but only easier left variation.
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Squid
WI 5
IN-
with mixed start, bring big cams
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Deep Freeze
WI- 5
OUT - too dry
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LOW Avalanche Danger as of 1/17/11 (human caused unlikely)
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NE Gully
WI 3
OUT- too dry
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Necrophilia
WI 5, M5
OUT
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Black Lake Slabs
WI2
IN
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 1/17/11 (human caused probable) |
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The Crypt
WI-4
IN-
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Grace Falls
WI 3-5
IN |
Columbine Falls
WI3-4
IN- but mostly buried
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 1/17/11 (human caused probable)
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Flying Dutchman
WI-2
OUT
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All Mixed Up
WI -3, M2
IN- rock in middle |
West Gully
WI - 3
IN- fat |
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 1/17/11 (human caused probable)
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Martha
WI - 2, M-1
IN
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Hallet's Chimney
WI-5, M-4
OUT - wait until spring
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Field's Chimney
WI-5. M4
OUT
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 1/17/11 (human caused probable)
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Alexander's Chimney
WI-4, M4
OUT- too dry
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Smear of Fear
WI-5, M5
OUT
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New Beginnings
WI-5, M5
could be IN
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 1/17/11 (human caused probable)
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The Window
WI-5, M4
OUT
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Vanquished
WI-5, M4
OUT
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Hot Doggies
WI-5+
could be IN
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HIGH AVALANCHE DANGER as of 1/17/11 (human caused likely)
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East Face, Notchtop
WI-3+, M3
IN - but high avi danger
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North American Avalanche Danger Scale
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Danger Level
(& Color)
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Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger
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Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger
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Recommended Action
in the Backcountry
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Why |
Where |
What to Do |
LOW
(GREEN)
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Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.
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Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
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(YELLOW)
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Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.
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Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.
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Use caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects.
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CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE)
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Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.
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Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED)
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Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.
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Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.
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Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.
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EXTREME
(BLACK)
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Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.
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Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible.
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Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.
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