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Ice
climbing and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes and
ski descents in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth; Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide, AIARE trained avalanche educator and owner of ClimbingLife Guides.
March 29 conditions
Warning: Ice
and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided
here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard
to your risk management in the mountains.
ClimbingLife, LLC and its
contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this
information. Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports
and one
can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities.
Proceed at your own risk, plan for the best outcome and be
prepared for the worst.
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March 29th, 2009
Ice
and Ski Report
Rocky
Mountain National Park
Luckily, winter has returned for the week to Rocky Mountain National
Park and the colder temperatures combined with new snow (up to 16" in
some locations) have brought much needed moisture and improved skiing
and ice climbing conditions in the high country.
Hidden Falls (at right) is blooming again this last week and new
variations are filling-in as well as the old steps from 100's
of winter ascents which are reforming and bringing the main falls back
into prime WI3+ shape.
The minimal ice and wide crack to the right of the Hidden
Falls, 'The Dangler" is in 'sporty shape' but with wide gear can be
linked easily enough with the abundant ice forming on the
upper tier.
More than a foot of new snow fell in the Dream Lake/ Loch Vale zone of
RMNP over Friday afternoon and evening (3/27) which combined with snowfall earlier in the week to reach 60cm of new storm totals in certain locations, especially where lee loading and strong
winds combined to dump much of this higher density, March snow.
Trails are somewhat 'punchy' and flotation is recommended as more
moisture is expected for tonight and later this week.
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A
growing Hidden
Falls on March 27th, 2009.
Click
on outlined photos to enlarge.
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Looking south (above) towards the north and east faces (R-L) of Longs Peak. The notch in the summit ridge to the left of the flat summit is the top of the Notch
Couloir, the left-edge rock is called 'The Beaver'. The shining snow of the Kieners route defines the left edge of
the Diamond and this new snow has loaded all of the north face, which
pre-storm a week ago was only about 1/2 snow covered and half bare rock..
Avalanche danger on this face and on any steep, exposed terrain is at
least CONSIDERABLE at the moment as this new snow is deep enough to
form potentially dangerous slabs which can more easily release on rocky
terrain above 30 degrees in steepness, especially where the slopes are
cut by cliffs at their base, which weaken the slabs and make them more
vulnerable to human-triggered releases. Much of the terrain
on Longs Peak: Broadway, the North Face, the Narrows and most
of the Loft are unsupported slopes that can have HIGH avalanche danger
due to this weak slab structure.
Trails through the Glacier Gorge, Tyndall Valley, and the
Loch Vale were well beaten down prior to this storm but the new snow
has covered them for the moment. High traffic over the spring
holidays has likely kept many of the more popular trails.
The trail into
Black Lake still takes its winter course up the streambed
from Mills and Jewel Lake. So much snowshoe traffic (trail maintenance)
over the last few weeks had made most of the
approaches in RMNP much easier, although some type
of flotation (ski or snowshoe) is now recommended for these
and any remote adventures into the high country.
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The beautiful snow covered, east-facing slopes on Hallett (left) are
above cliffs and so are unsupported and probably not the best spot to be
considering a ski descent or climb at the moment. The striking profiles of the north and south faces of Hallett are one of RMNP's most photographed features. This is also a special place to alpine rock climbers who enjoy the high quality climbing on these steep buttresses. Of course, the boulderers prefer the debris piled up in the Chaos and Tyndall Gorges which flank this massif.
At right,
the east face of Longs Peak shines in the first days of spring, 2009
with the north face showing decent loading on March 28th, 2009 with a
new covering of snow currently in the Boulderfield. Flotation
will absolutely be necessary for any excursions to these locations this
week due to this new snow and more in the forecast.
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Current
Rocky Mountain National Park ice climbing areas IN shape as of March
29th, 2009:
1. Hidden Falls ,Wild Basin
2. Jewel Lake ,
Glacier Gorge.
3. West Gulley ,
Glacier Gorge.
4. Black Lake Slabs ,Glacier Gorge.
5. Columbine Falls , Longs Peak.
6. The Crypt ,
Loch Vale
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Ryan Bogus checking
out the 'bat hang' on the as yet to be free climbed 'big roof' at
Hidden Falls, RMNP. This 20m long, cam protected crack system
is continuously overhanging on perfect rock , starting from
a spacious belay ledge 20m above the ground. We'll
be back this week to hopefully finish-up what has been a fun project-
stay tuned.
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Ryan
cranking out the crux moves on yet another redpoint burn; around the
overhang to the final headwall on this steep and imposing roof crack
nearby Hidden Falls.
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Catching
some air in the Dream Lake Chutes. Photo courtesy of Rio
Roman.
Avalanche
Danger on the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park on March 29th,
2009 is overall MODERATE
with some pockets of CONSIDERABLE
danger
(i.e. Tyndall Glacier,
Ptarmigan Glacier, E. Face
of Notchtop,
Broadway, Notch Couloir) in the more lee loaded, steeper, and
especially unsupported terrain at treeline and in the alpine zone.
Avalanche activity has been
especially focused on north to southeast facing slopes at and
above
treeline where skier and naturally triggered, mostly soft- slab
avalanches
have released in the last week. These N-E-SE slopes have a
strong CONSIDERABLE
danger
rating.
We always
recommend following the CAIC (Colorado Avalanche Information Center) avalanche
forecasts on a daily basis. Their morning updates are
done between 6 and 7am with an afternoon update to
follow.
Access the CAIC here.
 
The Crypt (left) is
showing continued
growth through the month of March and only the avalanche
danger
from below and above makes this a less-ideal venue with all of the
recent new snow.
The base of the north
face of Thatchtop (right)
with the wet spot of the potential mixed route 'Necrophilia'
is
about all that remains of this and similar colder aspect ice
in
this cirque. With the recent heat, routes on the Cathedral
Wall such as
'Womb with a View' could be coming into spring shape?
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The mostly warm weather
of
March has helped to condense and strengthen the snowpack at most
elevations
and aspects in Rocky Mountain National Park and only the coldest and
highest aspects have stayed wintery throughout this prolonged
heat spell.
South aspects appear to be too warm to grow much ice and north aspects
still seem too cold, but easterly aspects seem to be doing
the
best in regard to ice formation and this recent photo at
right
of the 'Olympic Games' pillar in the center of the Terrain
Park
show that it has been growing well these last few weeks and is ready for action- a great ski and ice climbing combo!
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Looking west in mid-March from the top of the Hidden Valley, towards
the Gorge Lakes basin and the summits of Mt. Ida, Cracktop,
and
Mt. Julien (12,928') on the Continental Divide of Rocky Mountain
National Park.
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Dougald MacDonald traversing the summit ridge of the Andrews Tarn
Tower
with the Sharkstooth Spire and north face of the Stilleto Tower in the
near distance. Dougald and long-time Estes local
Greg
Sievers completed a one-day first ascent up the north face of this
striking spire on March 22nd, 2009.
Dougald is the former editor in chief of Rock and Ice magazine and the Denver Business Journal and he is currently an associate editor of the American Alpine Journal. Check-out his excellent blog, Mountain World here.
 
Greg Sievers leading pitch 3 (left) and Dougald MacDonald following
the same pitch (right), one pitch above the crux on their route up the north face of the
Andrews Tarn Tower, which sits above the toe of the Andrews Glacier,
just below the Continental Divide in RMNP.
Photos courtesy of Greg
and
Dougald.
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Brian
Stevenson getting it done (above) on a one day link-up of the
Dragontail and Notchtop Couloirs on March 21st, 2009. Perfect
corn
conditions and good stability made for an early season start
to
these typically May corn descents. New snow this weekend has
created potential slabs on these slopes and brought them back
into typical winter conditions which mean CONSIDERABLE or higher
avalanche danger on these and other similar steep and loaded slopes.
Eli
Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides offers ski tours and private backcountry
clinics that focus on practical skills for minimizing the
risks while maximizing the fun in and around avalanche
terrain whether you are on skis, board, snowshoes,
or crampons
These
seminars can help increase your skills in
making
better backcountry decisions while taking advantage of the great
mid-winter
skiing and
climbing that Colorado has to offer.
Contact us at:
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
for more information or to register for one of our Friday ski outings, an avalanche seminar, a backcountry
ski
course, or a private ski tour with Eli Helmuth, Rocky Mountain National
Park's most experienced
mountain and ski guide.
Eli
is a
certified rock, alpine, and ski mountaineering guide and he has
10-years of experience as an AMGA
guide trainer in rock and alpine guiding. He has been an AMGA
exam-certified Rock Guide since 1991.
Spring
and summer trainings and outings in rock and alpine climbing start in
April of 2009
with a trip to the Alaska Range for ski mountaineering along with
clinics in Eldorado Canyon, the Flattirons and in Boulder Canyon
throughout the spring and summer months.
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Photos
below
are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.
Consult the
CAIC website for
current Avalanche Danger forecasts here.
Routes
are
sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW
Avalanche Danger as of 3/29/09
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Hidden Falls
WI- 3+
Back - IN
quickly reforming
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Loch Vale Ice
WI
2-5
M1-8
OUT
not
worth the hike
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Jewel
Lake
WI
2-3
IN
bring snowshoes
for trailbreaking
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LOW Avalanche Danger as of 3/29/09
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Jaws
WI
3-5
OUT
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Squid
WI 5
OUT
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Deep
Freeze
WI-
5
OUT
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MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 3/29/09
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Columbine Falls
WI
3-4
IN
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Necrophilia
WI
5, M5
OUT
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Black
Lake Slabs
WI2
IN
mostly
snow covered
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MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 3/29/09
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The
Crypt
WI-4
IN
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Grace
Falls
WI
3-5
IN |
NE
Gully
WI3
IN
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 3/29/09
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Flying
Dutchman
WI-2
OUT
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All
Mixed Up
WI
-3, M2
OUT
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West
Gully
WI
- 3
IN
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 3/29/09
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Martha
WI - 2, M-1
OUT
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Hallett's
Chimney
WI-5,
M-4
OUT
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Field's
Chimney
WI-5.
M4
OUT
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 3/29/09
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Alexander's
Chimney
WI-4,
M4
OUT
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Smear of Fear
WI-5,
M5
OUT
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New
Beginnings
WI-5,
M5
OUT
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 3/29/09
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The
Window
WI-5,
M4
OUT
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Vanquished
WI-5,
M4
OUT
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Hot
Doggies
WI-5+
OUT
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HIGH
Avalanche Danger as of
3/29/09
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East
Face, Notchtop
WI-3+, M3
OUT
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North
American
Avalanche Danger Scale
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Danger Level
(& Color)
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Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger
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Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger
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Recommended Action
in the
Backcountry
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| What
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Why
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Where
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What
to Do |
LOW
(GREEN)
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Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.
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Generally
stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel
is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
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(YELLOW)
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Natural
avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.
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Unstable
slabs possible on steep terrain.
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Use
caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects.
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CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE)
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Natural
avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.
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Unstable
slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be
increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED)
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Natural
and human triggered avalanches likely.
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Unstable
slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.
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Travel
in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward
ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.
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EXTREME
(BLACK)
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Widespread
natural or human triggered avalanches certain.
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Extremely
unstable slabs
certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches
possible. Large, destructive avalanches
possible.
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Travel
in
avalanche terrain
should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away
from avalanche path run-outs.
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