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Ice climbing
and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes and ski
descents in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth; Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide, AIARE trained avalanche educator and owner of ClimbingLife Guides.
<span class="">feb6 conditions</span>
Warning:
Ice
and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided
here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard
to your risk management in the mountains.
ClimbingLife, LLC and its
contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this
information. Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports
and one
can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities.
Proceed at your own risk, plan for the best outcome and be
prepared for the worst.
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February
6th, 2010
Snow
and Ice Report
Rocky
Mountain National Park
Unfortunately, conditions have been relatively static in RMNP the last
few weeks with minimal new snow and relatively warm temperatures
providing some added stability to an otherwise weak snowpack.
The ice has changed little in two weeks with warmer aspects the most
dynamic and everything else slowly drying-out.
In the first week of February, less than an inch of snow accumulated at the Bear
Lake Snotel station (9520') with high daytime
temperatures wavering between 21F and 41F in this time span.
As
a
result of little new snow and above freezing temperatures for much of
the week,
the CAIC has kept the avalanche danger rating for the Front
Range
mountains at MODERATE on the western aspects and CONSIDERABLE
on
the northern through eastern aspects.
The
areas of highest avalanche potential are slopes with a shallow
snowpack and less supported slopes in the upper 30 degree angle range
where a generally weak snowpack still exists. In RMNP this seems
to be
the situation more often in the treeline elevation range, which describes forested areas where
wind loading and energized slab formation are more prevalent.
Although
depth hoar (basal facets) are less common as a failure layer by this
time of year, the relatively shallow snowpack has kept this scary weak
layer close enough to the surface to be a layer of concern. This strong ovor weak layaerin set-up will continue to be an issue until the snowpack is more consistently deep-
hopefully before summer!

The
warm weather of the Front Range has made climbing on south-facing crags
in Eldo, Boulder Canyon, and even in the driveway of the Helmuth
homestead perfect for this time of year. I spared
the
reader by leaving out all of the shirtless photos, but believe me, on
these south-facing hills at 8,700', there have been many days when this
has been very comfortable.
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Sal
Silvester and Randy Levensaler kicking steps in foot deep powder up the
Dead Elk Couloir on Jan. 28th, 2010 on a ClimbingLife Guides Level 1 Avalanche Refresher Course.
A more
than 15' deep snowpack in this specific location and cross-loading
created perfect n0n-cohesive snow over a very thick and solid mid and
lower snowpack.
Much
of the key to avoiding avalanche issues in the currently relatively
shallow snowpack (1-2m) are finding those spots where the snowpack is
exceptionally deep and where the wind has created strong layering,
versus the strong over weak layering set-upm especially when the weak layer is composed of large, basal facets. In this situation, a deep snowpack is generally better.
Click
on outlined photos to enlarge.

Derek
Drechsel pulling the trigger on some deep and steep skiing in the
Dragontail Couloir on Feb. 5th, 2010 in preparation for our Alaskan Ski Expedition
in April of 2010. We still have a few spaces left on this fantastic trip, please contact me at
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
if you're considering joining us.
Again,
deep is good, especially where slopes are structurally well supported
and our main concern on this blustery day were fresh slabs
forming in the upper snowpack. Hand shear tests cut with a
ski
pole along with ski cuts showed that this was not an issue during our
time in the couloir.
Mountain
conditions, especially in the winter and spring seasons are
incredibly dynamic and although this
couloir was not our 'Plan A' for the day, through intuition
(experience) and constant testing, we determined that it was a
reasonable risk with considerable rewards. Check-out the
video
from this fantastic ski day here.
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Above, a view from
the Boulderfield
of the east and north faces of Longs Peak on January 30th, 2010.
In the higher
elevations of RMNP,
constant extreme winds up to 80mph have created a mix of conditions
from
wind scoured slopes, to wind-loaded micro areas, to pencil hard layers
10' deep immediately adjacent to grass and bare ground.
'Highly
Variable' is the key to understanding the snow coverage between 9 and
14k in these alpine regions, as there is little to now snow currently
below 9,000'.
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Although
I often post photos of snow test pits as a frame of reference for some
typical conditions that can be found in RMNP, the point of these
photos is not to demonstrate that these are decision-making
tools. My goal instead is to illustrate some of the complex
layering that
is often present in the winter snowpack.
When
I started studying snow from some of the top U.S. professionals in the
late 1980's, I was lucky enough to be exposed to the
inherent shortcomings of a purely scientific approach to
decision-making in
snow covered terrain. These mistakes (which current science
has proven true) were primarily based on the
theory that test pits were a reliable method to determine snow
stability.
Gambling
on the Super Bowl likely has greater predictive probability than gambling on a small sample of snow from a highly variable material to make a life or death decision.
My
main point here, is that we do not use pits as primary
decision-making tools and only human folly would steer us in
that
direction.

Looking
down the crux dihedral pitch of the North Face with the precipitous
Chasm View below.
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Looking up the right-facing dihedral of the 'Cables Route' on the North
Face of Longs Peak on Jan. 30th, 2010. These snow blobs were
found by Kevin Landolt to be extremely unstable and he aborted on a
solo attempt up this route due to a desire to live a long life.
I
say "well done Kevin" for checking it out and deciding that the proper
course of action was retreat!

A view from below the North Face of Longs Peak at the numerous
right-facing dihedrals that all seem to be holding similar blobs in
place at the moment. Hard to imagine that we might be skiing
these same slopes by mid-spring?
Photo's
from the North Face of Longs are courtesy of Kevin Landolt
who
has an
excellent blog here.
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A
close-up of the West Face of Longs Peak on Jan. 28th, 2010.
Snow
coverage is more rare on these slopes during the mid-winter months due
to excessively high winds which scour this windward slope at a
hurricane force energy. The four days of calm that we
experienced
during this period were a nice relief from the tempest that is too
often 'Windy Mountain National Park' in the winter months.
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Above-
Randy Levensaler dropping the knee in the Dead Elk Couloir on 12/28/10.
February
through May are the biggest snow months in the Front Ranges,
so
we have plenty of time yet for skiing season to come into shape and
we're looking forward to daily forays on ski's in the months to come.

CU
Professor Dan Sturgis getting in some great
powder turns on a ClimbingLife Guides Level 1 Avalanche Refresher
Course. The primary goal of this field-based course is to
increase each participants understanding of the dynamic nature and
predictive potential of the winter snowpack.
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(Above) Derek
Drechsel paying the price of admission
into the spectacular Dragontail Couloir on a ClimbingLife Guides Friday Ski Outing
on Feb. 5th, 2010.
These outings are designed to be small group outings, reasonably
priced, where team members can practice and hone the critical skills
involved in backcountry and ski mountaineering methodology. I
encourage you to join one of these outings, which happen every Friday
for the next three months of the primary off-piste ski season in the
Rockies.
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(Above) The
entrance to the Corral Couloir is a dramatic location and although the
cornice looks imposing, the short exposure time and cold winter
conditions lessen the risk of what appears to be impending doom.
Make sure to tie up your horses on the rack as they are not
allowed beyond this point!
Winds
over the last few weeks have been consistently peaking (with
four
days off) in the 50-70mph
mph range at
12k along the Continental Divide, and so there are many areas with LOW
avalanche danger despite the current rating from the CAIC for
the Front Range that has
stayed at MODERATE to CONSIDERABLE for the last few weeks.
There are also slopes that
are likely to be HIGH rating for avalanches, primarily on unsupported,
lee loaded slopes near and above treeline.
(Left) A snowpit
on Hallett Peak on Jan. 30th showing clean shears about 40cm below the
surface.
As always, we recommend
checking the CAIC website daily
to follow changes in the snowpack and for the most current danger
ratings and avalanche activities across the state of Colorado.
We
have
been very fortunate thus far this winter that despite a very weak and
reactive snowpack, there have been few avalanche fatalities in
Colorado.
This is likely somewhat a result of the
less than
ideal riding
conditions
which have decreased the amount of backcountry traffic and thus
potential for avalanche accidents.
But danger still lurks and in Utah and Idaho this last week,
there were six different avalanches that killed a total of six
individuals, partly due to their shallow and weak snowpack which is
less common in these inter-mountain ranges.

(Above
Left) Mike Arnold enjoying the cold, deep powder which
regularly accumulates below the North Buttress of Hallett Peak.
(Right) Jeff Hemstreet enjoying good skating
conditions on Dream Lake following a descent of the Corral Couloir and
Tyndall Gorge.

(Above) A small soft slab avalanche that I purposely ski cut
at
the entrance to our first run in the Terrain Park of RMNP on Feb. 6th,
2010. This 10" deep slab was deposited overnight by strong
winds
which fill-in these east-facing lee areas at treeline consistently,
even in this case when only an inch of snow had fallen overnight.
Ski cutting is one of the skills we cover on my Avalanche Field Seminars
which are designed to supplement the curriculum of a Level 1 Course by
providing a more field-based and hands-on approach to managing the risk
of avalanches. All of these courses take place in RMNP in
small groups with personalized coaching from Eli Helmuth.

(Above Left) ER Doc, Jeff Hemstreet carving powder near the
bottom of the
Corral Couloir on Jan. 29th, 2010. Check-out the video from
our
great day of skiing here.
(Above Right) A topo of the Notchtop Spire showing
particulars of the Spiral Route
and summit descent routes. I've started updating many of the
Alpine and Ski Mountaineering Route info on the site, and this will
continue for some time as it is a slow process for an overworked guy.

(Left)
Eli, Randy, and Sal Silvester (Rocky Mountain
Rescue member) reviewing the CAIC report and other particulars in Kind Coffee
before setting-out on a one-day Level 1 Refresher Course.
(Right) Eli and CLG Apprentice Guide, Mike Arnold discussing
ski cutting methods before a descent of the Corral Couloir on the south
face of Flattop Mountain.
Eli Helmuth is
an UIAGM Licensed Mountain Guide and AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine,
Ski Mountaineering Guide, and the father of Finley Cameron Helmuth, who
is turning two on Feb. 11th.
Eli
Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides offers ski tours and private backcountry
Avalanche
Seminars
and Backcountry
Skiing
Clinics that focus on
practical skills for minimizing the
risks while maximizing the fun in and around avalanche
terrain whether you are on skis, board, snowshoes,
or crampons. If you've already taken an avalanche course,
check-out our Level 1 Refresher Clinic
which is a mountain based
day in the peaks of RMNP, dedicated to increasing your abilities in
making decisions in avalanche terrain.
These
seminars will increase your skills and abilities in
making
better backcountry decisions while taking advantage of the great
mid-winter
skiing and
climbing that Colorado has to offer. Check-out our full
schedule
of outings here
for the 2009/10 season.
Contact
us
at:
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
or call 970.744.4898 to plan a fun-filled and
educational mountain outing with Eli Helmuth, RMNP's most experienced
mountain guide.
Check-out
photos from our recent trip to Ecuador here
for climbs
on
the mighty volcanoes which flank the Altiplano, between the Amazon
Basin and Galapagos Islands of this exotic Andean nation.
We'll
be returning to Ecuador in November and to Peru in September
of
2010- join us!
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Photos
below
are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.
Consult
the
CAIC website for
current Avalanche Danger forecasts here.
Routes
are
sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW
Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused unlikely)
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Hidden
Falls
WI- 3+
IN -getting beat up
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Loch
Vale Ice
WI
2-5
M1-8
barely
IN- bad year
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Jewel
Lake
WI
2-3
IN
and busy
with guided groups.
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LOW Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused unlikely)
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Jaws
WI
3-5
IN
,
but only easier left variation.
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Squid
WI 5
OUT
- too dry
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Deep
Freeze
WI-
5

OUT - too dry
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LOW
Avalanche
Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused unlikely)
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Columbine
Falls
WI
3-4
IN
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Necrophilia
WI
5, M5

OUT
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Black
Lake Slabs
WI2
IN
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MODERATE
Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused possible)
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The
Crypt
WI-4
IN-
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Grace
Falls
WI
3-5

IN
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NE
Gully
WI3

IN
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MODERATE
Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused possible)
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Flying
Dutchman
WI-2
OUT
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All
Mixed Up
WI
-3, M2
IN-
rock in middle
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West
Gully
WI
- 3
IN-
fat
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MODERATE
Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused possible)
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Martha
WI - 2, M-1
could
be IN
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Hallet's
Chimney
WI-5,
M-4

OUT
- wait until spring
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Field's
Chimney
WI-5.
M4

OUT
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MODERATE
Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused possible)
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Alexander's
Chimney
WI-4,
M4

IN
but thin
and
not complete
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Smear
of Fear
WI-5,
M5
OUT
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New
Beginnings
WI-5,
M5
OUT
but forming
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MODERATE
Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused possible)
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The
Window
WI-5,
M4

OUT
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Vanquished
WI-5,
M4

OUT
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Hot
Doggies
WI-5+

OUT
but close to IN
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CONSIDERABLE
Avalanche
Danger as of 2/6/10
(human caused probable)
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East
Face, Notchtop
WI-3+, M3

IN - thin year
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North
American
Avalanche Danger Scale
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Danger Level
(& Color)
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Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger
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Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger
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Recommended Action
in the
Backcountry
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| What
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Why
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Where
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What
to Do |
LOW
(GREEN)
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Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.
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Generally
stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel
is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
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(YELLOW)
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Natural
avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.
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Unstable
slabs possible on steep terrain.
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Use
caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects.
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CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE)
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Natural
avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.
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Unstable
slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be
increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED)
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Natural
and human triggered avalanches likely.
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Unstable
slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.
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Travel
in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward
ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.
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EXTREME
(BLACK)
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Widespread
natural or human triggered avalanches certain.
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Extremely
unstable slabs
certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches
possible. Large, destructive avalanches
possible.
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Travel
in
avalanche terrain
should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away
from avalanche path run-outs.
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