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Feb. 6th Snow and Ice Conditions
Ice climbing and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes and ski descents in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth;  Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide, AIARE trained avalanche educator and owner of ClimbingLife Guides.
<span class="">feb6 conditions</span>

Warning:  Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains.  ClimbingLife, LLC and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information.  Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports and one can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities.  Proceed at your own risk, plan for the best outcome and be prepared for the worst.


February 6th, 2010


Snow and Ice Report

Rocky Mountain National Park  


Unfortunately, conditions have been relatively static in RMNP the last few weeks with minimal new snow and relatively warm temperatures providing some added stability to an otherwise weak snowpack.   The ice has changed little in two weeks with warmer aspects the most dynamic and everything else slowly drying-out.

In the first week of February, less than an inch of snow accumulated at the Bear Lake Snotel station (9520') with high daytime  temperatures wavering between  21F and 41F in this time span.

As a result of little new snow and above freezing temperatures for much of the week, the CAIC has kept the avalanche danger rating for the Front Range mountains at MODERATE on the western aspects and CONSIDERABLE  on the northern through eastern aspects. 

The areas of highest avalanche potential are slopes with a shallow snowpack and less supported slopes in the upper 30 degree angle range where a generally weak snowpack still exists.  In RMNP this seems to be the situation more often in the treeline elevation range, which describes forested areas where wind loading and energized slab formation are more prevalent.

Although depth hoar (basal facets) are less common as a failure layer by this time of year, the relatively shallow snowpack has kept this scary weak layer close enough to the surface to be a layer of concern.  This strong ovor weak layaerin set-up will continue to be an issue until the snowpack is more consistently deep- hopefully before summer!

eli helmuth bouldering

The warm weather of the Front Range has made climbing on south-facing crags in Eldo, Boulder Canyon, and even in the driveway of the Helmuth homestead perfect  for this time of year.  I spared the reader by leaving out all of the shirtless photos, but believe me, on these south-facing hills at 8,700', there have been many days when this has been very comfortable.

 dead elk couloir colorado
Sal Silvester and Randy Levensaler kicking steps in foot deep powder up the Dead Elk Couloir on Jan. 28th, 2010 on a ClimbingLife Guides Level 1 Avalanche Refresher Course.  A more than 15' deep snowpack in this specific location and cross-loading created perfect n0n-cohesive snow over a very thick and solid mid and lower snowpack.  

Much of the key to avoiding avalanche issues in the currently relatively shallow snowpack (1-2m) are finding those spots where the snowpack is exceptionally deep and where the wind has created strong layering, versus the strong over weak layering set-upm especially when the weak layer is composed of large, basal facets.  In this situation,  a deep snowpack is generally better. 

Click on outlined photos to enlarge.


derek drechsel skiing

Derek Drechsel pulling the trigger on some deep and steep skiing in the Dragontail Couloir on Feb. 5th, 2010 in preparation for our Alaskan Ski Expedition in April of 2010. We still have a few spaces left on this fantastic trip, please contact me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it if you're considering joining us.

Again, deep is good, especially where slopes are structurally well supported and our main concern on this blustery day were  fresh slabs forming in the upper snowpack.  Hand shear tests cut with a ski pole along with ski cuts showed that this was not an issue during our time in the couloir.

Mountain conditions, especially in the winter and spring seasons are  incredibly dynamic and although this couloir was not our 'Plan A' for the day, through intuition (experience) and constant testing, we determined that it was a reasonable risk with considerable rewards.  Check-out the video from this fantastic ski day here.

north face longs peak
Above, a view from the Boulderfield of the east and north faces of Longs Peak on January 30th, 2010.

In the higher elevations of RMNP, constant extreme winds up to 80mph have created a mix of conditions from wind scoured slopes, to wind-loaded micro areas, to pencil hard layers 10' deep immediately adjacent to grass and bare ground.  'Highly Variable' is the key to understanding the snow coverage between 9 and 14k in these alpine regions, as there is little to now snow currently below 9,000'.

Although I often post photos of snow test pits as a frame of reference for some typical conditions that can be found in RMNP, the point of these photos  is not to demonstrate that these are decision-making tools. My goal instead is  to illustrate some of the complex layering that is often present in the winter snowpack.

When I started studying snow from some of the top U.S. professionals in the late 1980's, I was lucky enough to be exposed to the inherent shortcomings of a purely scientific approach to decision-making in snow covered terrain.  These mistakes (which current science has proven true) were primarily based on the theory that test pits were a reliable method to determine snow stability. 

Gambling on the Super Bowl likely has greater predictive probability than gambling on a small sample of snow from a highly variable material to make a life or death decision.

My main point here, is that we do not use pits as primary decision-making tools and only human  folly would steer us in that direction.

north face longs peak colorado

Looking down the crux dihedral pitch of the North Face with the precipitous Chasm View below.


north face longs peak colorado

Looking up the right-facing dihedral of the 'Cables Route' on the North Face of Longs Peak on Jan. 30th, 2010.  These snow blobs were found by Kevin Landolt to be extremely unstable and he aborted on a solo attempt up this route due to a desire to live a long life.  I say "well done Kevin" for checking it out and deciding that the proper course of action was retreat!

north face longs peak colorado

A view from below the North Face of Longs Peak at the numerous right-facing dihedrals that all seem to be holding similar blobs in place at the moment.  Hard to imagine that we might be skiing these same slopes by mid-spring?

Photo's from the North Face of Longs are  courtesy of Kevin Landolt who has an excellent blog here.
 
 
longs peak colorado
   A close-up of the West Face of Longs Peak on Jan. 28th, 2010.  Snow coverage is more rare on these slopes during the mid-winter months due to excessively high winds which scour this windward slope at a hurricane force energy.  The four days of calm that we experienced during this period were a nice relief from the tempest that is too often 'Windy Mountain National Park' in the winter months.
 

 randy levensaler telemark

Above- Randy Levensaler dropping the knee in the Dead Elk Couloir on 12/28/10.

February through May are the biggest snow months in the Front Ranges,  so we have plenty of time yet for skiing season to come into shape and we're looking forward to daily forays on ski's in the months to come.

dan sturgis skier

CU Professor Dan Sturgis getting in some great powder turns on a ClimbingLife Guides Level 1 Avalanche Refresher Course.  The primary goal of this field-based course is to increase each participants understanding of the dynamic nature and predictive potential of the winter snowpack.


derek drechsel skier

(Above)  Derek Drechsel paying the price of admission into the spectacular Dragontail Couloir on a ClimbingLife Guides Friday Ski Outing on Feb. 5th, 2010.

These outings are designed to be small group outings, reasonably priced, where team members can practice and hone the critical skills involved in backcountry and ski mountaineering methodology.  I encourage you to join one of these outings, which happen every Friday for the next three months of the primary off-piste ski season in the Rockies.
 

 


corral couloir colorado
(Above) The entrance to the Corral Couloir is a dramatic location and although the cornice looks imposing, the short exposure time and cold winter conditions lessen the risk of what appears to be impending doom.  Make sure to tie up your horses on the rack as they are not allowed beyond this point!

 

Winds over the last few weeks have been consistently peaking (with four days off) in the 50-70mph mph range at 12k along the Continental Divide, and so there are many areas with LOW avalanche danger despite the current rating from the CAIC for the Front Range that has stayed at MODERATE to CONSIDERABLE for the last few weeks.  There are also slopes that are likely to be HIGH rating for avalanches, primarily on unsupported, lee loaded slopes near and above treeline.

snow science pit snow science pit

(Left) A snowpit on Hallett Peak on Jan. 30th showing clean shears about 40cm below the surface. 
As always, we recommend checking the CAIC website daily to follow changes in the snowpack and for the most current danger ratings and avalanche activities across the state of Colorado.  

We have been very fortunate thus far this winter that despite a very weak and reactive snowpack, there have been few avalanche fatalities in Colorado.  This is likely somewhat a result of the  less than ideal riding conditions which have decreased the amount of backcountry traffic and thus potential for avalanche accidents.
  But danger still lurks and in Utah and Idaho this last week, there were six different avalanches that killed a total of six individuals, partly due to their shallow and weak snowpack which is less common in these inter-mountain ranges.

tyndall gorge skiing skiing tyndall gorge
(Above Left)  Mike Arnold enjoying the cold, deep powder which regularly accumulates below the North Buttress of Hallett Peak.  
 
(Right)  Jeff Hemstreet enjoying good skating conditions on Dream Lake following a descent of the Corral Couloir and Tyndall Gorge.
soft slab avalanche
(Above)  A small soft slab avalanche that I purposely ski cut at the entrance to our first run in the Terrain Park of RMNP on Feb. 6th, 2010.  This 10" deep slab was deposited overnight by strong winds which fill-in these east-facing lee areas at treeline consistently, even in this case when only an inch of snow had fallen overnight.  
 
Ski cutting is one of the skills we cover on  my Avalanche Field Seminars which are designed to supplement the curriculum of a Level 1 Course by providing a more field-based and hands-on approach to managing the risk of avalanches.  All of these courses take place in RMNP in small groups with personalized coaching from Eli Helmuth.
   
 backcountry skiing colorado notchtop spire topo

(Above Left)  ER Doc, Jeff Hemstreet carving powder near the bottom of the Corral Couloir on Jan. 29th, 2010.  Check-out the video from our great day of skiing here.

(Above Right)  A topo of the Notchtop Spire showing particulars of the Spiral Route and summit descent routes.  I've started updating many of the Alpine and Ski Mountaineering Route info on the site, and this will continue for some time as it is a slow process for an overworked guy.

avalanche seminar colorado backountry skiing colorado
(Left)  Eli, Randy, and Sal Silvester (Rocky Mountain Rescue member) reviewing the CAIC report and other particulars in Kind Coffee before setting-out on a one-day Level 1 Refresher Course.
(Right)  Eli and CLG Apprentice Guide, Mike Arnold discussing ski cutting methods before a descent of the Corral Couloir on the south face of Flattop Mountain.

ifmga mountain guide license             amga certified rock, alpine, and ski mountaineering guide                  finley helmuth 
Eli Helmuth is an UIAGM Licensed Mountain Guide and AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine, Ski Mountaineering Guide, and the father of Finley Cameron Helmuth, who is turning two on Feb. 11th. 

Eli Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides offers ski tours and private backcountry Avalanche Seminars and Backcountry Skiing Clinics that focus on practical skills for minimizing the risks while maximizing the fun  in and around avalanche terrain whether you are on skis, board,  snowshoes, or crampons.  If you've already taken an avalanche course, check-out our Level 1 Refresher Clinic which is a mountain based day in the peaks of RMNP, dedicated to increasing your abilities in making decisions in avalanche terrain.

These seminars will  increase your skills and abilities in making  better backcountry decisions while taking advantage of the great mid-winter skiing and climbing that Colorado has to offer.  Check-out our full schedule of outings here for the 2009/10 season.

Contact us at:  This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or call 970.744.4898 to plan a fun-filled and educational mountain outing with Eli Helmuth, RMNP's most experienced mountain guide.  

Check-out photos from our recent trip to Ecuador here for climbs on the mighty volcanoes which flank the Altiplano, between the Amazon Basin and Galapagos Islands of this exotic Andean nation.  We'll be returning to Ecuador in November and to Peru in September  of 2010- join us!

 

Photos below are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.

Consult the CAIC website for current Avalanche Danger forecasts here.
 

Routes are sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:


LOW Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused unlikely)
 


Hidden Falls
WI- 3+


hidden falls rocky mountain national park colorado
 
  IN -getting beat up 


Loch Vale Ice

WI 2-5
M1-8


loch vale ice rocky mountain national park colorado

barely IN- bad year

 

Jewel Lake
WI 2-3


jewel lake ice rocky mountain national park colorado

IN
and busy
with guided  groups.


LOW Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused unlikely)

Jaws
WI 3-5

jaws ice climb rocky mountain national park colorado

IN , but only easier left variation.

 

Squid
WI 5

squid ice climb rocky mountain national park colorado

OUT -  too dry

 

 

Deep Freeze
WI- 5

deep freeze ice route colorado

OUT - too dry

 


LOW Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10  (human caused unlikely)


Columbine Falls

WI 3-4

columbine falls longs peak colorado

IN 

 


Necrophilia

WI 5, M5

necrophilia ice route colorado

OUT 

 

 
Black Lake Slabs
WI2

 black lake slabs glacier gorge colorado

IN

 


MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused possible)

 

The Crypt
WI-4

crypt ice climb rocky mountain national park colorado

IN-

 

Grace Falls
WI 3-5

grace falls ice climb colorado

IN 

 NE Gully
WI3

NE Gully Thatchtop Mountain Colorado

IN

MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused possible)


Flying Dutchman
WI-2

flying dutchman ice route colorado

OUT

 

All Mixed Up
WI -3,  M2

all mixed up ice route rocky mountain national park colorado

IN- rock in middle
West Gully
WI - 3

west gully ice climb colorado

IN- fat

MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused possible)

 

Martha
WI - 2, M-1

martha ice route longs peak colorado

could be  IN 


 

 

Hallet's Chimney
WI-5, M-4

hallett chimney ice route colorado

OUT - wait until spring

 

 

Field's Chimney
WI-5. M4

field's chimney longs peak colorado

OUT

 



MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused possible)

 

Alexander's Chimney
WI-4, M4

alexander's chimney

IN but thin 

and not complete

 


Smear of Fear

WI-5, M5

smear of fear longs peak colorado ice climb

OUT

 

New Beginnings
WI-5, M5

new beginnings ice climb colorado

OUT but forming



MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10 (human caused possible)

 

The Window
WI-5, M4

window ice route longs peak colorado

OUT

 

 

Vanquished
WI-5, M4

vanquished ice climb rocky mountain national park colorado

OUT

 

 

Hot Doggies
WI-5+

hot doggies ice climb colorado climbinglife guides

OUT but close to IN

 


CONSIDERABLE  Avalanche Danger as of 2/6/10  (human caused probable)

 

East Face, Notchtop
WI-3+, M3

east face notchtop colorado ice climb

IN - thin year

 

   


North American Avalanche Danger Scale

 


Danger Level

(& Color)

 


Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger

 


Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger

 


Recommended Action

in the Backcountry

 

What Why Where What to Do

LOW

 (GREEN)


Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.

 

Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised.


 MODERATE

(YELLOW)

 

 

Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.

 

 

Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.

 

 

Use caution in steeper terrain and  on certain aspects. 

 

   

    CONSIDERABLE

(ORANGE)

 

Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.

Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain.


HIGH 

(RED)

 

 

Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.

 

 

Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.

 

 

Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.

 

EXTREME 

(BLACK)

 

Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.

 

Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible. 

 

Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.

 



 

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