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Feb. 25th Snow and Ice Conditions
Ice climbing and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes and ski descents in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth;  Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide, AIARE trained avalanche educator and owner of ClimbingLife Guides.


Warning:  Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains.  ClimbingLife, LLC and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information.  Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports and one can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities.  Proceed at your own risk, plan for the best outcome and be prepared for the worst.


February 25th, 2010


Snow and Ice Report



Rocky Mountain National Park  

If I haven't had time to write a report for the site these last two weeks, it's only because I've been out skiing great powder for 9 out of the last 11 days,  leaving little time for other ventures or vices.  I'm not asking for pity, only patience.

Although the info from the Bear Lake Snotel station  (9520') shows a total of approx. 11 inches of new snow deposited since the 17th, this biggest  storm of the season for RMNP started on the 11th and continued with little interruption through the 21st.  Check-out Dan's weather report for more details. 

We were skiing in the Dead Elk Couloir on the 12th and during our mid-day 2nd lap, the snowfall rate increased to an amazing 2-3" an hour!   We quickly bailed from that location as the resulting sloughs on all sides became increasingly sizable.  When snow is falling much more than a 1/2"  per hour rate in these steeper couloirs, sloughs will release naturally, often in 10-30 minute intervals. 

When new or lee deposited snow rates grow to the breaking point, the resulting sloughs can occur many times per hour and we observed numerous avalanches releasing from the adjacent Dragontail Couloir that were  large enough to bury a person if not a car (D2-D3 in size).

The best news during this period of recent snowfall which continued almost continuously through the 21st, was that there was little to no wind observed the entire time- it must be a record!

In most locations on the east side of RMNP between 10-12k, totals of 1-4 feet of new snow accumulated as  non-cohesive layer on top of a deep (>2m) and relatively strong base.  

Therefore, during this time, our primary avalanche concern has been  sloughing; the type of avalanche activity that is the most predictable and generally less dangerous than harder slabs.

backcountry skiing colorado
Corien De Jong enjoying sweet powder turns in the Dead Elk Couloir on a Ski Outing on Feb. 21st.  

Our Ski Outings and Avalanche Seminars are designed to train capable leaders and skilled decision-makers in the high mountains.

 avalanche paths tyndall gorge colorado
A diagram of the lower apron of the Dragontail Spire from a photo taken on a busy mid-Feb. day.  Photo taken from Emerald Lake, RMNP, Colorado.

Our Avalanche Seminar team was able to observe numerous examples of poor decision-making that made for a very educational experience during our outing in the Tyndall Gorge. The red area at right in the photo is the avalanche path of the Dragontail Couloir that had been releasing in recent days and hours with debris piling up more than 6' high, almost reaching the shores of Emerald Lake.  

The black line up the slope outlines the up track that was established before we arrived and which everyone seemed to be using for the ascent.  A group of climbers were going up and down the Dragontail,  presenting the threat of human released slough or slab avalanches.  

The wildest section of  this up track was made by a pair of skiers who continued across the Dead Elk Couloir to the west and through some of the most avalanche prone terrain in this entire valley.  This east-facing slope, super lee loaded, unsupported, and littered with weakening trees is a sketchy one.   Luckily they did not decide to ski directly down that slope as it could have been catastrophic.

Outlined in green is the up-track that we typically take in this cirque that weaves narrowly between the two avalanche paths.  It's great to enjoy the off-piste experience, in fact it's one of my favorite activities, but we must be super smart about when and where we go and this day was an example of some of the poorer judgment in regard to route selection that I've seen in some time.  

If you're looking to increase your risk management skills in this environment, I invite you to join one of my Avalanche Field Seminars, with openings this upcoming Feb. 27-28 weekend.  This Field Seminar is an investment in your safety that will payoff in the short and long term.

Click on outlined photos to enlarge.

backcountry skiing colorado
A close-up of the debris at the base of the Dragontail Couloir on Feb. 14th with a skier heading up the middle of this landing zone for avalanches.  Two other climbers are hanging out next to the rock,  directly in the middle of this active avalanche path.  


longs peak colorado(Above) A view from the Boulderfield on Longs Peak of the full moon setting at sunrise in early February. 

Photo courtesy of Kevin Landolt who has an excellent blog here.

 
 
From the vantage point of my office, I can see that the east and north faces of Longs Peak are well loaded and thus highly dangerous as a result of this recent snowfall.  The Loft looks very lee loaded as usual this time of year.  The only reasonable route up Longs would likely be the Trough Couloir with the Iron Gates being the safest and least avalanche prone route currently to the summit of Mt. Meeker.


(Below) Sixty-nine year old climber Steve Klein and I were able to enjoy a few days of mixed training on the crags of the Estes Valley in mid-February.  

 

mixed climbing colorado

Steve has done numerous mountain trips to Alaska, South America, and even camp 3 on Everest during his 4 year climbing career- his only regret: "that I started so late".

"Well done Steve" I say, as he went for it in mixed climbing and so we have our sights set on other mixed routes in the Flatirons and beyond.

Another favorite spring venue are the single and multi-pitch routes of Eldorado Canyon, where some of the best routes in the Front Range beckon to the aspiring and seasoned climber.  Early spring is often t-shirt weather in the hot Colorado sunshine and my favorite season for Eldo time. 

Please contact me at: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it if you're interested in guide training, rescue skills, aid or big-wall climbing, crevasse rescue, advanced sport and trad lead climbing techniques.  Check-out our range of climbing courses here.

backcountry skiing colorado
(Above)Usually behind the camera, the rarely photographed Eli getting in some deep powder turns on the Dragontail Apron on a February, 21st outing.  
Photo courtesy of Fast Froggy.

Although we had 10 days with minimal wind and a resulting lower avalanche danger due to non-cohesive snow on the surface, the winds started blowing hard enough on Feb. 23rd to transform much of this snowpack  and this has increased the avalanche danger in the Front Range considerably.  Slabs have formed on the surface to adequate depths and size as to present a real risk and many new crowns were observed on untraveled lee slopes above treeline throughout RMNP on Feb. 24th.

The current avalanche danger rating is at least CONSIDERABLE if not HIGH for the lee and cross-loaded aspects in RMNP (N-E-S).  Backcountry travelers should test the snowpack regularly with ski cuts, test slopes, and hand shears to check for slab cohesion, sensitivity and propagation potential, especially with the large volume of new snow that will have been transported by the most recent winds.

mixed climbing colorado
(Above) Eli getting pumped on the HF project.

eli helmuth backcountry ski guide colorado
Eli teaches ski clinics for new and experienced backcountry skiers, including an upcoming Steep Ski Clinic on March 7th that addresses avalanche decision-making along with ascending and descending techniques in steeper ski terrain.  An Introduction to Backcountry Skiing Seminar on March 13-14th covers the full range of skills necessary for successful off-piste travel on AT or Telemark equipment.

 backcountry skiing colorado(Above) Scott Hetherington enjoying some RMNP powder on an Avalanche Field Seminar.

February through May are the biggest snow months in the Front Ranges,  so we have plenty of time yet for skiing season the snowpack to keep increasing in depth and the skiing to keep getting better with more terrain accessible with each passing storm.

backcountry skiing colorado
(Above) Fast Froggy being swallowed up by deep powder on a Sunday Ski Outing.   

Check-out the video here that we shot on this very snowy day in the Tyndall Gorge of RMNP.

 


backcountry skiing corral couloir colorado
(Above)  CLG Apprentice Guide Mike Arnold on a ClimbingLife Guides Friday Ski Outing in the Corral Couloir of Flattop Mountain.

These outings are in a small group where team members can practice and hone the critical skills involved in backcountry travel methods while enjoying the best conditions that RMNP has to offer.  We encourage you to join one of our outings, which meet every Friday in Estes Park for the next three months of what is the best off-piste season in Colorado.

 


jaws  ice climb(Above) The beautiful Jaws ice climb in the Fern Canyon of RMNP at sunrise on Feb. 23rd, 2010.  Two days of intense heat and radiation have done some damage to what is likely the  largest ice route in shape in the park.  The easier left side is mostly detached and hollow, leaving steeper (WI 4+ to 5) and very wet and detaching conditions on the rest of this 45m tall flow.

Winds over the last two days have been consistently peaking in the 30-40mph mph range at 12k along the Continental Divide and so the avalanche danger has risen into the CONSIDERABLE rating for all slopes and HIGH for the most loaded and unsupported terrain.  Avalanche Danger in CO has stayed at CONSIDERABLE or HIGH for the last few weeks due to the volume of new snow in many locations.  

The slopes that are most likely to be HIGH DANGER are primarily on unsupported, lee loaded slopes near and above treeline, especially with scattered trees or convexity's.  Refer to the photo at the beginning of this report for a prime example.  Shallow slopes <2m, especially on north and east facing slopes are more suspect due to a thick depth hoar layer that will persist for many more months but will hopefully become deeply buried soon.  The increased snowfall and with more scheduled to come will hopefully lessen or negate what has been a long-term issue this winter in the U.S. Rockies during what has been thus far been a shallow snowpack winter.

avalanche field seminar colorado avalanche field seminar colorado (Left) Team avalanche rescue practice on a Field Avalanche Seminar.  (Right) Snowpit studies above Dream Lake on the north face of the east ridge of Hallett Peak in RMNP.


These has been a bad few weeks for avalanche accidents and fatalities in the Rockies with another Colorado backcountry skier death nearby Aspen and other avalanche deaths in Wyoming and Alaska this month bringing the national death toll for the year from avalanches to 18 individuals.  Some of our more avalanche potential months are still ahead as the ideal 'summer snowpack' will not arrive for many months to come.  Stay safe out there!

 backcountry skiing coloradobackcountry skiing colorado
(Above Left)  Kevin Coopman in the middle of the massive snowfall that occurred on Feb.12th during our Friday Ski Outing.  (Right)  Corien De Jong and Fast Froggy enjoying perfect climbing conditions below the Dragontail Spire.
 

estes park donut shop upslope brewery beer
I'm often asked what are the secrets to sustaining such a high level of metabolic activity in the high mountains, so I've included examples of common pre and post mountain cuisine.
(Left)  Alejo Lazatti and Joe Neimuth in my favorite restaurant, the Estes Park Donut Shop. 
Alejo, while visiting from Ecuador, enjoying a frosty apres-ski energy drink courtesy of the Upslope Brewery.

ifmga mountain guide license             amga certified rock, alpine, and ski mountaineering guide                   
Eli Helmuth is an UIAGM Licensed Mountain Guide and AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine, Ski Mountaineering Guide with 21 years of worldwide, professional experience.

Contact us at:  This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or call 970.744.4898 to plan a fun-filled and educational mountain outing with Eli Helmuth, RMNP's most experienced mountain guide.  

 

Photos below are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.

Consult the CAIC website for current Avalanche Danger forecasts here.
 

Routes are sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:


LOW Avalanche Danger as of 2/24/10 (human caused unlikely)
 


Hidden Falls
WI- 3+


hidden falls rocky mountain national park colorado
 
  IN -very beat up 


Loch Vale Ice
WI 2-5
M1-8


loch vale ice rocky mountain national park colorado

barely IN- bad year

 

Jewel Lake
WI 2-3


jewel lake ice rocky mountain national park colorado

IN
and busy
with guided  groups.


LOW Avalanche Danger as of 2/24/10 (human caused unlikely)

Jaws
WI 3-5

jaws ice climb rocky mountain national park colorado

IN , but only harder variations.

 

Squid
WI 5

squid ice climb rocky mountain national park colorado

OUT -  too dry

 

 

Deep Freeze
WI- 5

deep freeze ice route colorado

OUT - too dry

 


CONSIDERABLE
  Avalanche Danger as of 2/24/10  (human caused probable)


Columbine Falls

WI 3-4

columbine falls longs peak colorado

IN 

 


Necrophilia

WI 5, M5

necrophilia ice route colorado

OUT 

 


Black Lake Slabs
WI2

 black lake slabs glacier gorge colorado

IN

 


CONSIDERABLE
  Avalanche Danger as of 2/24/10  (human caused probable)

 

The Crypt
WI-4

crypt ice climb rocky mountain national park colorado

IN- but short for the length of the approach.

Grace Falls
WI 3-5

grace falls ice climb colorado

IN 

 NE Gully
WI3

NE Gully Thatchtop Mountain Colorado

IN

CONSIDERABLE  Avalanche Danger as of 2/24/10  (human caused probable)


Flying Dutchman
WI-2

flying dutchman ice route colorado

OUT

All Mixed Up
WI -3,  M2

all mixed up ice route rocky mountain national park colorado

IN- rock in middle
West Gully
WI - 3

west gully ice climb colorado

IN- fat

CONSIDERABLE
  Avalanche Danger as of 2/24/10  (human caused probable)

Martha
WI - 2, M-1

martha ice route longs peak colorado

  IN 


Hallet's Chimney
WI-5, M-4

hallett chimney ice route colorado

OUT - wait until spring

Field's Chimney
WI-5. M4

field's chimney longs peak colorado

OUT


CONSIDERABLE
  Avalanche Danger as of 2/24/10  (human caused probable)

Alexander's Chimney
WI-4, M4

alexander's chimney

OUT


Smear of Fear

WI-5, M5

smear of fear longs peak colorado ice climb

OUT

New Beginnings
WI-5, M5

new beginnings ice climb colorado

OUT - but could reform in current conditions



CONSIDERABLE  Avalanche Danger as of 2/24/10  (human caused probable)

The Window
WI-5, M4

window ice route longs peak colorado

OUT

Vanquished
WI-5, M4

vanquished ice climb rocky mountain national park colorado

OUT

Hot Doggies
WI-5+

hot doggies ice climb colorado climbinglife guides

OUT 


HIGH  Avalanche Danger as of 2/24/10  (human caused likely)

 

East Face, Notchtop
WI-3+, M3

east face notchtop colorado ice climb

OUT

   


North American Avalanche Danger Scale

 


Danger Level

(& Color)

 


Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger

 


Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger

 


Recommended Action

in the Backcountry

 

What Why Where What to Do

LOW

 (GREEN)


Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.

 

Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised.


 MODERATE

(YELLOW)

 

 

Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.

 

 

Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.

 

 

Use caution in steeper terrain and  on certain aspects. 

 

   

    CONSIDERABLE

(ORANGE)

 

Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.

Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain.


HIGH 

(RED)

 

 

Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.

 

 

Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.

 

 

Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.

 

EXTREME 

(BLACK)

 

Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.

 

Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible. 

 

Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.

 



 

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