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Up-to-date information on ice, alpine routes, and backcountry skiing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Snow conditions and avalanche danger are forecast by Eli Helmuth, an AMGA certified rock, alpine, and ski mountaineering guide and owner of ClimbingLife Guides.
Warning: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. ClimbingLife, LLC and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports and one can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities. Proceed at your own risk, plan for the best outcome and be prepared for the worst.
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February 15th, 2011
Snow and Ice Report
Rocky Mountain National Park
The first week of February gave us the biggest snowfall of the year on the east side of RMNP. The strong westerly winds that plague this region in the winter months took a break during this time and the deep, unconsolidated powder that arrived demanded our constant attention.
Although avalanche danger was overall MODERATE during the week of snowfall from Feb. 3rd-8th, the return of winds exceeding 80mph on the Continental Divide quickly scraped clean the higher altitude surfaces and created HIGH avi danger on lee and cross-loaded slopes.
Snow depths are well above average for this time of year in RMNP and although only 50" of snow is sitting on the ground nearby Bear Lake, the coverage above Dream Lake and in the upper Tyndall Gorge averages closer to 3m and in many loaded areas, more than 5 to 10 meters of snow are on the ground.
Skiing conditions are overall excellent due to this thick coverage on all but west aspects and on the Continental Divide where high winds almost always prohibit snow accumulation in the winter months. Pockets of CONSIDERABLE DANGER (or higher) always exist in this extreme mountain terrain, especially where slopes are unsupported by cliffs below.
Fritz the snowman going deep in the Dragontail Couloir on Feb. 5th.
A break in the wind following the first burst of moisture on Feb. 4-5th resulted in 50-60cm of unconsolidated snow in many locations between 10-12k in RMNP.
The winds have returned to gale force for the last week and so most of this powder has blown into hard slabs or towards Kansas.
A test pit done on a southeast aspect above Dream Lake in RMNP on Feb. 12th with a reactive facet layer sitting on a melt/freeze crust at a 70cm depth.
In this wind loaded zone in the Tyndall Gorge, just east of the ice climb The Squid, we found this buried near surface facet layer at a 70cm depth with columns showing CT2 Q1/2 results. This seems to be the most reactive layer observed on the east side of the park in the last two weeks and as a result, south aspects should be treated with suspicion.
We dug this pit on an Avalanche Seminar as part of our study of the mountain snowpack in RMNP where we have great access to avalanche terrain. We also practice the travel techniques and decision-making skills necessary in navigating safely through snow covered mountains.
Eli has openings on the upcoming Feb. 19-20th weekend and on March 12-13th for this exciting field-based seminar designed for backcountry enthusiasts.
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The north face of Powell Peak (13,208') towers over the Otis and Otis Redding Couloirs in RMNP.
Click on outlined photos to enlarge.
Fritz Moriarty and Henry Wood tag teaming down the deep, unconsolidated snow of the lower Dragontail on Feb. 5th and thus far the best powder day of the year in RMNP. This recent dump has inspired us for the big snow season ahead in the coming months.
 A medium density slab releasing on a south-facing slope in the Terrain Park on Feb. 10th at the 10,ooo' elevation range where melt-freeze cycles in early February were followed by new snow and very cold temp's as low as -20F at this location. This weather pattern lead to the formation of near-surface facets on top of the melt-freeze crust and this was the failure layer in this skier triggered 25cm slab release on an unsupported 35 degree slope.
Overall, the snowpack in RMNP is gaining strength under the current warm and windy weather regime but that will likely change by the weekend with more new snow. The next few months guarantee big snowfalls and more avalanche danger along with all of the great powder that comes our way in the springtime.
Always check the CAIC avalanche danger forecast before heading out into the backcountry, carry avalanche safety gear, make good route finding decisions, and be flexible to changing conditions and group abilities.
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A few backcountry techniques to consider:
1. Plan for the best, prepare for the worst.
2. Stay together, stay together, and don't seperate.
3. Respect the most conservative opinion in your group.
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A view from the Terrain Park (Glacier Domes) of the north and west faces of Longs Peak on February 13th, 2011.
In the higher elevations of RMNP, constant winds up to 100mph have created a mix of conditions from wind scoured slopes (above) , to wind-loaded areas like Broadway and the Lambslide. Pencil hard layers 10' deep immediately adjacent to grass and bare ground are common above 12,000' where the Avalanche Danger ranges from LOW to HIGH, often in close proximity. "Highly Variable" is the key to understanding the snow coverage and avalanche danger between 10k and 14k in these alpine regions.
Our Level 1 Avi Refresher is a great option for getting more field time with an AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide and Avalanche Instructor, while learning the avalanche patterns and problem areas in the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park.
The next Level 1 Refresher takes place in RMNP on Monday, Feb. 28th and costs just $110 for a full-day seminar.
The Stoneman and Yellow Tears above Black Lake are in some of the best shape I've seen in 12 years. After a week of very high winds in this valley, most of the slabs here have gained substantial density and strength and so it's primarily the unsupported slopes above these climbs that should be treated with great caution.
Slab release is common here due to the lack of support on most sides for these big enough to kill you slopes. Rappelling off the trees at the top or off v-threads is usually safer than traversing the base of these slopes, especially with the terrain trap of a cliff and talus field below you to make for an unpleasant downhill ride.
Photo courtesy of Brad White.
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 Fritz tele-hopping down the bottomless powder we encountered on a very calm super bowl Sunday... this big descent made for a great pre-game stretch of the legs.
 Fritz coming up for air while "freeing the mind" in the Dragontail.
Henry getting it done in the upper DTC.
A rare lack of wind resulted in mostly cohesion less snow sitting up to 80cm deep due in this narrow trough. Sloughing off the towering cliffs on all sides add to the accumulations in often sloughing terrain.
Currently, these slopes would likely have sensitive and deep slabs that would create HIGH danger for skiers or climbers. It is possible that the wind and sun combined with avalanche activity in the last week have been able to sufficiently strengthen these slopes.
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The ice route Crystal Meth in the Loch Vale Ice Area is currently offering a couple of options for 25m WI4-5 routes. Trees on top have rappel anchors and a 60m rope works to top-rope.
The rest of the Loch is in typical mid-winter shape due to a late start, some snow melt which likely fed the ice, and less traffic this year to this out of the way ice and mixed crag.
Eric Borch checking out the 50cm deep slab that Eli ski-cut on a Thursday Ski Outing in RMNP.
This below 30 degree area between Dream and Nymph Lakes in the Tyndall Gorge is where the normal winter trail traverses this south-facing slope. The almost two foot deep slab propagated 20 m in all directions but only moved 10-30cm due to the low angled and well supported slopes below the treed convexity on top where the ski cut took place.
Ski cutting is one of the skills we review on my Avalanche Field Seminars which are designed to supplement the curriculum of a Level 1 Course by providing a more field-based and hands-on approach to understanding and managing the risk of avalanches. All of these courses take place in small groups with personalized instruction from Eli Helmuth.
Join Eli for a fun and enlightening weekend in the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Seminars start at 8am in Estes Park, finishing at 5pm each day. Register by phoning 970-744-4898 or contact
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
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The snow-covered Dragontail Spire summit ridge is a tenuous traverse in any month. Covered with this much snow, it would be good training for many Peruvian and Himalayan summits.
Longs Peak hovers below the clouds in the distance.
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(Left) The east face of Thatchtop is looking snow loaded after the recent meter of snow fell in this vicinity. The upper slopes of this wall are unsupported and slough or slab avalanches have hit ice climbers in these types of conditions.
(Right) Looking down the Dragontail Couloir from the very top with Emerald and Dream Lakes mostly in the shadows below.
 
(Left) Fritz enjoying the fluffy powder on the Dragontail Apron, RMNP.
(Right) Horacio enjoying a deep powder pocket in the Dream Lake Chutes.
Eli offers regular Friday Outings for up to four skiers or split boarders for the best powder skiing in the Front Range. Join us on Feb. 25th, March 4th, 11th, 18th or April 1st, 8th, and 15th to start your weekend off with a shot of powder!
 
(Left) The Dragontail Couloir with fresh tracks on February 6th, 2011. (Right) Henry in the throat of the DT on a deep powder descent of one of Colorado's most classic couloirs.
Horacio enjoying some cold powder on the north facing Dream Chutes with the Dragontail in the distance on the north side of the Tyndall Gorge.
Most trails in RMNP are currently well trodden with a combination of snowshoe and wind compaction. Beyond the normal winter destinations: Black Lake, Loch Vale, Emerald lake, Flattop Mountain, Longs Peak Trail, and Lake Helene from Bear Lake: deep snow or lack of trail signs will make travel more difficult. Most of the winter trails do not exactly follow the summer time paths, so if you're using GPS for precise navigation, you might realize that you're not on any of the mapped trails.
We will be departing on April 17th to Anchorage, Alaska where Eli will be leading another fantastic ski mountaineering expedition to the great Alaska Range. Five nights of glacier camping put us in position for six great days of some of the best powder skiing on the planet. Check-out last year's trip report here or the expedition info page here.
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We've got a few spots left for this year's expedition and you don't need to be a pro skier to enjoy the bottomless powder and endless snow covered landscape of North America's greatest mountain range. Contact
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for more information or questions.
Eli has been spending one evening a week at Movement Gym and Fitness in Boulder, CO - with a table in the Front Lobby showing off most of the gear involved in backcountry skiing and split-boarding including snow study kits, rescue toboggans, emergency shelters, satellite responders, digital beacons, collapsible shovels and probe poles.
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Demonstrations of the new BCA- Float 30 Avalanche Airbag Pack have been taking place weekly at Movement and as a result we've become proficient at deploying and repacking these potentially life-saving devices. Although newer in use than beacons, ABS packs have a proven 98% survival rate when deployed versus a 40% survival rate with beacons. I'm ecstatic to be using an BCA Float 30 Pack this ski season!
 
Eli Helmuth is an UIAGM Licensed Mountain Guide and AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine, Ski Mountaineering Guide.
Eli Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides offers ski tours and private backcountry Avalanche Seminars and Backcountry Skiing Clinics that focus on practical skills for minimizing the risks while maximizing the fun in and around avalanche terrain.
Contact us at:
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
or call 970.744.4898 to plan a fun-filled and educational mountain outing with Eli Helmuth, RMNP's most experienced mountain guide.
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Photos below are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.
Consult the CAIC website for current Avalanche Danger forecasts here.
Routes are sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW (1)Avalanche Danger as of 2/15/11 (human caused unlikely)
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Hidden Falls
WI- 3+
IN -getting beat up |
Loch Vale Ice
WI 2-5
M1-8
IN- little less than usual
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Jewel Lake
WI 2-3
IN
and busy
with guided groups and clubs.
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MODERATE (2) Avalanche Danger as of 2/15/11 (human caused possible)
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Jaws
WI 3-5
IN , but varies day to day and falls apart quickly in warm weather.
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Squid
WI 5+ 5.11 (M7)
IN- (barely)
with mixed start, bring big cams
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Deep Freeze
WI- 5
OUT - too dry
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MODERATE (2) Avalanche Danger as of 2/15/11 (human caused possible)
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NE Gully
WI 3
some ice in the middle
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Necrophilia
WI 5, M5
OUT
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Black Lake Slabs
WI2
IN
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CONSIDERABLE (3) Avalanche Danger as of 2/15/11 (human caused probable) |
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The Crypt
WI-4
IN- beware of heat caused avalanches
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Grace Falls
WI 3-5
IN |
Columbine Falls
WI3-4
IN- but mostly buried
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CONSIDERABLE (3) Avalanche Danger as of 2/15/11 (human caused probable)
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Flying Dutchman
WI-2
OUT
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All Mixed Up
WI -3, M2
IN - rock in middle |
West Gully
WI - 3
IN- fat |
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CONSIDERABLE (3) Avalanche Danger as of 2/15/11 (human caused probable)
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Martha
WI - 2, M-1
IN - with some soft snow and minimal ice.
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Hallet's Chimney
WI-5, M-4
OUT - wait until spring
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Field's Chimney
WI-5. M4
OUT - wait until spring
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CONSIDERABLE (3) Avalanche Danger as of 2/15/11 (human caused probable)
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Alexander's Chimney
WI-4, M4
OUT- too dry
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Smear of Fear
WI-5, M5
OUT- maybe in November
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New Beginnings
WI-5, M5
could be IN
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CONSIDERABLE (3) Avalanche Danger as of 2/15/11 (human caused probable)
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The Window
WI-5, M4
OUT
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Vanquished
WI-5, M4
OUT
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Hot Doggies
WI-5+
OUT
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HIGH (4) AVALANCHE DANGER as of 2/15/11 (human caused likely)
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East Face, Notchtop
WI-3+, M3
OUT- high avi danger
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North American Avalanche Danger Scale
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Danger Level
(& Color)
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Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger
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Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger
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Recommended Action
in the Backcountry
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| What |
Why |
Where |
What to Do |
LOW (1)
(GREEN)
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Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.
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Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
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(YELLOW)
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Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.
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Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.
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Use caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects.
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CONSIDERABLE (3)
(ORANGE)
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Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.
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Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH (4)
(RED)
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Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.
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Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.
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Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.
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EXTREME (5)
(BLACK)
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Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.
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Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible.
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Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.
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