December 4th, 2009

Ice and Mountain Report

Rocky Mountain National Park  

Last night's lows at the Bear Lake trailhead reached negative  nine degrees Fahrenheit (-8.7F) and with high's from Tuesday, just 36hrs. previously hitting 55F at Lumpy Ridge,  the sudden drop in temperature was very noticeable.  

At the Bear Lk. trailhead (9500') on Saturday the 28th of November reaching a comfortable high of 43F, yesterday's high of 6F was a bit of a 'flash freeze' that affected the consistency and strength of  the mountain snowpack and water ice in a very short time period.

Although this cold air is severe enough, and as my wife said on Thursday, "Antarctica is warmer right now!", it looks like tomorrow could be the best day of the week before another NW colder storm system hits CO again on Sunday (12/6).

On Wednesday, (12/3) with little to no wind for most of the day, we were able to enjoy some ice and mixed climbing in a sunny location on the south-facing slopes below Notchtop Mountain.  We would have enjoyed more sun if not for the long (2.5hrs) approach to this 'Guide's Wall' section of the Lake Helene drainage where the mixed route 'New Beginnings' had enough ice to look reasonable to our hungry eyes.  

Ryan Bogus getting established in the crack start of New Beginnings in the lower Ptarmigan Valley, below the east face of Notchtop Mountain.
 

Click on outlined photos to enlarge.

An 8am view of the south and east faces of Notchtop Mountain above Lake Helene on Dec. 3rd,2009.

A born and raised local (world-class) Estes climber said to me many times, "The avalanche danger in RMNP is always LOW with pockets of EXTREME ", astutely  meaning that there are always easy places to get caught in a slab avalanche and they tend to include these standard three components:  

1. lee or cross wind- loaded          2. 35-45 degree angle       3. convex or unsupported terrain

With these crucial components in mind, it is also easy to visualize all of the  terrain in RMNP and similar ranges that has the highest avalanche potential.  And with all of the non-snow covered terrain available in the park for most of the year, due to the high winds, there is also ample terrain that stays mostly in the LOW avalanche danger spectrum.  As always, the CAIC website should be checked daily to follow changes in the snowpack and for the most current danger ratings and avalanche activities across the state of Colorado.

(Left)  The Guide's Wall area of the upper Lake Helene drainage, below Notchtop Mountain in good ice shape on 12/3/09.

(Right) A silhouette of the south ridge of Notchtop Mountain, a classic III 5.9 rock route in the summer months and good 'Patagonia Training' this time of year.

Trail conditions into the Two Rivers Lake region were hardpack and beaten-in enough to easily walk without flotation.  We carried snowshoes to the edge of the valley before dropping down and crossing the variable snow conditions that covered the upper forest directly above Lake Helene and just 100 yards below the Grace Falls ice route.  Off trail, the snow was mostly weak and faceted for it's 1-2 foot depth.

The sun was warming enough to make it enjoyable for some time at the base of the route, but once the sun was stuck behind clouds or eventually dropped below the horizon, the air temperatures seemed to plummet immediately below 0F and so we wasted little time in getting started on a lead of this classic pitch.  

Unfortunately the extreme cold at 0F, was more than our hands could handle on this steep terrain and we had to bail before our objective was complete, mostly due to almost unusable extremities on this coldest of December days.

Knowing that the first half of the route contains good cracks that take solid gear on  this uber-classic 25m pitch, we made our way up to the ice which seemed a bit too brittle and shattery (due to the cold) to take solid gear on this Alaskan morning.  The ice had turned super brittle after a few weeks of warm sublimation when the remaining form was flash-frozen only 24hrs previously, resulting in a very brittle and thin veneer which was less than ideal for  WI-5 climbing.

Faceting of the basal part of the snowpack (the bottom 10-20cm) is one of the leading causes of early season avalanches in Colorado. Snow that fell in September and early October quickly transforms in a cold environment from warm rounded grains into this very weak layer that the entire snowpack ends up sitting on top of and causes many accidents and deaths in our Continental snowpack. 

Once the snowpack gains enough depth, usually greater than 1.5 meters, these potential failure layers will be buried deep enough to be of much less concern as a source of avalanches.  

It is during our current snowpack set-up, when the total snowpack on most slopes is in the 40-60cm height range, that the backcountry enthusiast should be most concerned about 'Depth Hoar'. 

This basal facet layer is a leading cause of avalanche deaths in the early season until this weak layer is very well buries beyond our ability to interact (impact) them.  We've got some time before that scenario plays out and this sketchy base layer is well-enough buried.  At least until after the New Year and likely well into January before our snowpack in most areas becomes solid enough to have some confidence in overall stability, 

Photos below are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.

Consult the CAIC website for current Avalanche Danger forecasts here.
 

LOW Avalanche Danger as of 12/04/09

Loch Vale Ice
WI 2-5
M1-8




OUT - please let it form.

LOW Avalanche Danger as of 12/04/09

Squid
WI 5



OUT -  too warm

Deep Freeze
WI- 5



OUT - too dry

MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of  12/04/09  (human caused possible)

Columbine Falls
WI 3-4



IN

Necrophilia
WI 5, M5



OUT - was IN earlier in Oct.

 
Black Lake Slabs
WI2

 

IN

MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of  12/04/09  (human caused possible)

The Crypt
WI-4



FORMING

 NE Gully
WI3



IN

MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of  12/04/09  (human caused possible)

Flying Dutchman
WI-2



OUT

MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of  12/04/09  (human caused possible)

Martha
WI - 2, M-1



OUT - was IN 

could reform

Hallett's Chimney
WI-5, M-4

OUT - wait until spring

Field's Chimney
WI-5. M4



OUT

MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of  12/04/09  (human caused possible)

Alexander's Chimney
WI-4, M4



IN but thin and not complete

Smear of Fear
WI-5, M5



OUT

New Beginnings
WI-5, M5



OUT but forming

MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of  12/04/09  (human caused possible)

 

The Window
WI-5, M4



OUT

Vanquished
WI-5, M4



OUT

Hot Doggies
WI-5+



OUT but close to IN

CONSIDERABLE  Avalanche Danger as of 12/04/09  (human caused probable)

East Face, Notchtop
WI-3+, M3



IN- great conditions

North American Avalanche Danger Scale

Danger Level
(& Color)

Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger

Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger

Recommended Action
in the Backcountry

Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.

Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.

Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.

Use caution in steeper terrain and  on certain aspects. 

(ORANGE)

Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.

Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.

Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.

Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.

Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.

Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible. 

Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.