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Iceclimbing and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes and ski descents in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth; Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide, AIARE trained avalanche educator and owner of ClimbingLife Guides.
Dec. 14th Conditions
Dec. 3rd Ice Report
Warning: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. ClimbingLife, LLC and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports and one can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities. Proceed at your own risk, plan for the best outcome and be prepared for the worst. |
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December 14th, 2009
Ice and Avalanche Report
Rocky Mountain National Park
Since Thursday the 10th, temperatures at the Bear Lk. trailhead have risen almost 30 degrees on average to reach highs just below freezing after a very cold week with lows down to -5F.
This increase in temperature will overall be helpful to the snowpack as the previous cold snap had only helped to dry-out and increase faceting in the relatively shallow snowpack (<1m) in RMNP where temperature gradients were building facets and overall making for a weak base.
Anytime we have extreme shifts in temperature of this magnitude, either up or down the scale, the snowpack can become more 'tender' and ice also reacts in a similar way to lose strength temporarily while more equilibrium is established in these water based substances that we so much like to play on.
Winds over the weekend had been peaking in the 70 mph range at 12k along the Continental Divide and no doubt anyone climbing above treeline in the last 5 days found themselves struggling against a constant west wind that was very unforgiving.
Snowfall totals for the winter at Bear Lk. (9500') on Thursday the 10th were measured at 21" total, which is less than ideal for sliding based activities, and with just 27" total as of today, it will still be a while before skiing and boarding are likely worth the effort.
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Fabrizio Zangrelli, Marmot sponsored athlete, catching some rays at the base of the excellent RMNP ice route Jaws while trying to decide if it is too warm or not for a safe ascent on Dec. 11th, 2009. Note how the middle pillar and section of curtain had collapsed in the previous 24hrs. due to excessive water saturation and warmer temperatures.
Click on outlined photos to enlarge.
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 The very hidden away Olympic Games Wall, just north of the Haiyaha Creek Drainage in the middle of the east facing side of the Terrain Park, only 15 minutes south of Nymph Lake. More details on this crag can be found here on Mountain Project, although the ice ratings seem a little 'off' for some of the left-hand, two body length routes as it's hard to give 15' of climbing a WI5 rating? Either way, this is a nice sunlit crag that offers solitude and better quality climbing when in shape then the overrated Nymph Lake 'ice' area nearby.
The Bear Lake Snotel Site at 9500' on the east side of RMNP is currently showing 6" of new snow since the last storm cycle started on Sunday, yet due to high winds which have created pockets of severe loading, and an already weak and sensitive snowpack, the current avalanche danger for the Front Range is overall rated HIGH which means that human caused avalanches are likely.
This forecast would be most true for specific slopes that are loaded from these high winds and new snow and include:
1. lee or cross wind- loaded 2. 35-45 degree angle 3. convex or unsupported terrain
With these crucial criteria in mind, it is easier to visualize all of the terrain in RMNP and similar ranges that have the highest avalanche potential. With all of the non-snow covered terrain available in the park for most of the year, due to the high winds, there is also ample terrain that stays mostly in the LOW avalanche danger spectrum. As always, the CAIC website should be checked daily to follow changes in the snowpack and for the most current danger ratings and avalanche activities across the state of Colorado.
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Skiing in the Terrain Park of RMNP last week was torturous with such a weak snowpack, there was little fun found in the up or downhill portions of my trip which was primarily motivated to check-on snowpack conditions.
The wind was howling above treeline so I was unable to do any test pits up high, but having seen the alpine terrain a week earlier in the Odessa Gorge, I imagine that the already snow covered terrain now has more sensitive slabs sitting on top of a very hard, pencil density surface. Some of these new slabs will be more than a foot in depth, and this is plenty of snow to bury a skier or carry them quickly down a slope into a likely rocky landing.
In the east end of the Terrain Park, just south of Nymph Lake where we do much of our mid-winter below treeline sliding, the 6-10 inches of surface slab was highly reactive and I encountered numerous slopes in the 20 degree range which were releasing in propagating fractures up to 30' in all directions from my ski's and I was glad to be on lower angle terrain with nothing steep above me as the likelihood of a slope on steeper terrain releasing in these conditions is very HIGH.
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A test pit dug on Thursday the 10th of December in the Haiyaha Creek Drainage, AKA Mario Gully. Boot penetration was to the ground in this very weak snowpack that showed high re-activeness on this post storm day with intense wind loading occurring above treeline. An old ice layer near the ground was topped by a 19cm thick layer of well developed depth hoar facets; overall a typical snowpack in this lee-loaded and wind protected drainage for this time of year.
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Fabrizio dressed for action next to the ton of ice debris laying in the gully directly below the ice route Jaws in the Fern Canyon.
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This lower elevation route in RMNP (8K) is south-facing and thus receives ample sunlight in our beautiful Colorado weather. Since the ground is still very warm following the hot weather from mid to late November, the ice here is less than ideally bonded to the rock thus far.
There was lots of water flowing as well which is good for development but temporarily weakens and adds additional mass to the ice flow, making it more unstable and likely to collapse where the ice is unsupported.
This route tends to be one of the best mid-winter routes in RMNP and with time and patience; allowing it to grow, for the ground to cool, and thus avoiding the inherent risks in 'warm-ice' climbing, it should be a good year for this and similar aspect routes such as New Beginnings, the Squid, and the Crypt.
Areas like the Loch Vale, All Mixed Up, and Necrophilia are all on the flanks of Thatchtop Mountain, and these areas are very different. Not only are they on north and east facing aspects, but their water sources are very different as they are aquifer based and it seems that the water level is lower this year as these areas are relatively dry and unlikely to grow substantially at this point in the season. Aquifer's are fed by snow-melt and rainfall during the spring and summer months, and for some reason this does not appear to be a good year .
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Another view of the Jaws ice route, just east of the best hard-route crag in RMNP: The Rock of Ages.
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(Left) Chris Codding practicing crevasse rescue on the very frozen shores of Mary's Lake in Estes Park for a planned June ascent of Denali . Chris and Eli trained in glacier travel and crevasse rescue on a somewhat blustery day that was somewhat realistic to conditions on Denali. Eli has climbed Denali 6 times and in 2003 set the AMGA exam record for crevasse rescue by executing a full 'solo' rescue in under 12 minutes. Although we don't advertise these services, Eli is available by private arrangement to coach climbers in the technical and expeditionary techniques involved in climbs like Denali or in the Himalaya. Contact him at
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to arrange your personalized training in glacier travel or expeditionary techniques.
(Right) A map of the West Gully and Stoneman ice route areas of the Glacier Gorge, below McHenry's and Arrowhead Peaks with the rappel descent routes shown in blue, walk-off and approach paths in green, and likely lee-loaded avalanche prone slopes circled in red. This area would currently have avalanche danger in the CONSIDERABLE to HIGH range following this weekend's storm. I have seen numerous crown lines and avalanche debris above and below these routes at this time of year.
 
(Left) A close-up of the route "Olympic Games" in the Terrain Park area of RMNP, which has a few bolts and pins protecting it's 20m of steep mixed climbing.
(Right) Chris getting some time in front of a Denali style-sled while practicing glacier travel on the two foot thick ice on the shores of Mary's Lake. Eli and Chris trained for a full day in glacier travel and crevasse rescue and Chris gained substantial proficiency in executing crevasse rescue on his own. Chris has summited Aconcagua in Argentina and is currently training for an ascent of Denali via the West Buttress this upcoming summer. Since there are no crevasses in the state of Colorado, and likely none in Wyoming or Montana as we have nothing but the remnants of glaciers left in these parts of the Rockies- the closest 'real' glaciers being in Oregon or Washington; these icy shores proved to be a suitable training ground for these important glacier travel techniques.
(Left) Hidden Falls is in primo shape with water flowing and helping form more ice than average years. Bring your gore-tex and enjoy. (Right)Front-pointing with 'piolet traction' on the short ice falls in the Big Thompson Canyon off of Hwy 34 between Estes Park and Loveland, CO. This closest to the road ice climbing location makes for a great short day or warm-up area if you're coming from Loveland or Fort Collins and the ice this year is in good condition and continuing to form. Over the last weekend, there were a dozen climbers there on Saturday and just three on Sunday...with about enough room currently for two ropes and 4-6 climbers on this 30' high flow.
 
Eli Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides offers ski tours and private backcountry Avalanche Seminars and Backcountry Skiing Clinics that focus on practical skills for minimizing the risks while maximizing the fun in and around avalanche terrain whether you are on skis, board, snowshoes, or crampons. If you've already taken an avalanche course, check-out our Level 1 Refresher Clinic which is a mountain based day in the peaks of RMNP, dedicated to increasing your abilities in making decisions in avalanche terrain.
These seminars will increase your skills and abilities in making better backcountry decisions while taking advantage of the great mid-winter skiing and climbing that Colorado has to offer. Check-out our full schedule of outings here for the 2009/10 season.
Contact us at:
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or call 970.744.4898 to plan a fun-filled and educational mountain outing with Eli Helmuth, RMNP's most experienced mountain guide.
Check-out photos from our recent trip to Ecuador here for climbs on the mighty volcanoes which flank the altiplano, between the Amazon Basin and Galapogos Islands of this exotic Andean nation.
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Photos below are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.
Consult the CAIC website for current Avalanche Danger forecasts here.
Routes are sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW Avalanche Danger as of 12/14/09
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Hidden Falls
WI- 3+
IN -getting beat up good |
Loch Vale Ice
WI 2-5
M1-8
OUT - please let it form.
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Jewel Lake
WI 2-3
IN
and busy
with guided groups.
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LOW Avalanche Danger as of 12/14/09
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Jaws
WI 3-5
IN - too warm
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Squid
WI 5
OUT - too warm
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Deep Freeze
WI- 5
OUT - too dry
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MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 12/14/09 (human caused possible)
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Columbine Falls
WI 3-4
IN
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Necrophilia
WI 5, M5
OUT - was IN earlier in Oct.
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Black Lake Slabs
WI2
IN
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MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 12/14/09 (human caused possible)
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The Crypt
WI-4
FORMING
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Grace Falls
WI 3-5
IN- Phat! |
NE Gully
WI3
IN
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 12/14/09 (human caused probable)
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Flying Dutchman
WI-2
OUT
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All Mixed Up
WI -3, M2
IN- but thin in middle |
West Gully
WI - 3
IN- fat |
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 12/14/09 (human caused probable)
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Martha
WI - 2, M-1
OUT - was IN
could reform
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Hallett's Chimney
WI-5, M-4
OUT - wait until spring
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Field's Chimney
WI-5. M4
OUT
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 12/14/09 (human caused probable)
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Alexander's Chimney
WI-4, M4
IN but thin and not complete
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Smear of Fear
WI-5, M5
OUT
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New Beginnings
WI-5, M5
OUT but forming
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 12/14/09 (human caused probable)
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The Window
WI-5, M4
OUT
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Vanquished
WI-5, M4
OUT
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Hot Doggies
WI-5+
OUT but close to IN
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HIGH Avalanche Danger as of 12/14/09 (human caused likely)
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East Face, Notchtop
WI-3+, M3
IN- great conditions
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North American Avalanche Danger Scale
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Danger Level
(& Color)
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Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger
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Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger
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Recommended Action
in the Backcountry
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| What |
Why |
Where |
What to Do |
LOW
(GREEN) |
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.
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Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
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(YELLOW)
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Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.
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Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.
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Use caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects.
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CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE)
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Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.
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Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED)
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Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.
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Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.
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Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.
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EXTREME
(BLACK) |
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.
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Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible.
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Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.
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