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Up-to-date information on alpine routes, backcountry skiing, and trail conditions for Longs Peak and Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Snow conditions and avalanche danger are forecast by Eli Helmuth , an AMGA certified rock, alpine, and ski mountaineering guide and owner of ClimbingLife Guides; a year-round guide service based in Estes Park offering worldwide mountain trips and local seminars in the climbing and skiing arts.
Warning: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. ClimbingLife, LLC and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports and one can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities. Proceed at your own risk, plan for the best outcome and be prepared for the worst.
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August 27th, 2009
Conditions Report
Rocky Mountain National Park
It's been a see-saw couple of weeks in RMNP weather-wise through August with a trend towards dryer, more stable weather after what was a very late start to summer.
In mid-August there was a period mid-week (of course) that gave no worries, all day sunshine without a chance of storms over the high peaks. And when the forecast is this good, a committed climber has no choice but to go without sleep or comforts and head to the biggest wall in the neighborhood.
The beauty of being a local (and not traveling during the prime seasons) is that you are close enough to stay attuned to the current conditions and hopefully have the willpower to make it happen.
We are back into a 'bomber' Colorado blue skies forecast at the moment and if you read this tonight, drop what you're doing and head to the hills!
We'll see you out there!
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Matt Segal above the 'double dyno' move in the North Chimney approach to the Diamond Face of Longs Peak, Colorado. Matt, originally a gym rat from Florida, is on his way to becoming a big-wall alpine master and he has already succeeded in establishing one of the harder trad routes in Eldorado Canyon: Iron Pony (14a).
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The east face of Spearhead on August 23rd, 2009. I rappelled down the route Spear Me the Detailson this stellar day and in 5 rappels and 15 hrs. roundtrip (car to car), replaced the remaining bad bolts on this classic route and added a few bolts (and replaced pitons) at anchors on this 5-7 pitch 300m classic slab route in one of the most spectacular settings in Rocky Mountain National Park.
 
(Left) Some of the recently pulled bolts from Spearhead: the bottom two are a 1/4" x 1" buttonhead with Leaper hanger (recalled due to to bodyweight breakage) and a 3/8"x 1.5" '5-piece' Rawl. These two bolts and 6 others were pulled out easily with a funkness cable and split-arrow pry. The new hardware that replaces them in the same holes are all FIXE stainless 3/8" by 2.5" bolts along with some ASCA hangers. A
discussion on several recent broken and severely corroded bolt hangers
in Washington due to mis-matched metals (in a wet environment) can be
found here.
(Right) Climbers at the base of the classic North Ridge of Spearhead.
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Despite the periods of stellar weather that August has given, there has been some wetness and early morning showers this last week that made any alpine aspirations quickly melt away.
The canyons of Eldorado Canyon have been faring well in what has been a cooler and wetter spring and summer season than usual.
With such easy access to 700' buttresses and steep cragging pitches, Eldorado Canyon is a mecca for lovers of steep, face and crack climbing in a mostly traditionally protected environment.
The alpine walls in the high country have been prime these last few weeks and many parties have been visiting the prime locations in RMNP including the two north faces of Chiefshead, Spearhead, Arrowhead, the Petite Grepon, Saber, Sharkstooth, Zowie, Hallett, and Notchtop.
Certainly the east ridge of Ypsilon aka (Blitzen) sees a lot of action this time of year and the Longs Peak Cirque with the centerpiece of the Diamond , the Chasm View Wall, the Flying Buttress on Meeker along with the Ship's Prow constitute a lifetime's worth of high-quality alpine rock objectives.
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Mike Arnold on the sharp end of the bouldery 3rd pitch of the Yellow Spur - one of the most coveted routes in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.
The pitch finishes through the steep box-dihedral above Mike's left hand.
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The Keyboards to the Wind are some of the less visited alpine spires in RMNP due to their hefty approach toll to the head of the Glacier Gorge, another hour past the east face of Spearhead. Moderate alpine ridges and faces lead to these rarefied summits and easy descents can lead back to some of the sweetest bivy campsites in the park.
(above) When the rain is pouring down in rocky terrain such as the west face of Long Peak on this August mid-afternoon storm day, significant debris can be carried in raging streams and waterfalls. Not only is lightning a risk in these often violent events, but large amounts of rain can cause spontaneous rockfall in locations such as the North Chimney, Crack of Delight, Lambslide, below Chiefshead, and similar locations above treeline. An example of rainfall moving rock were the 3 inches of water that fell in an few hours on the 24th of August, filling up Finley's wading pool.
Chasm Lake, the most mis-pronounced destination and the seldom swam remnants of the mighty, now Mills Glacier, once filled this granite gorge at the base of Longs Peak.
 
(Upper Left) On the final 'Crack of Delight' rappels (330m) down the lower east face of Longs Peak before the storm descends. (Upper Right) The Swegal family and friends on the west side of the Keyhole on Longs Peak at approximately 13,000' on this early storm day on August 14th.
Current avalanche danger overall for the high country of RMNP is starting LOW each morning, then rising to MODERATE on only the rare hottest afternoons with any potential danger being in the form of D1 sized loose snow avalanches (point release) in the upper 3-6" of the snowpack. Although any avalanche activity other than cornice collapses (think Y-Couloir) will likely be small enough not to bury an individual, if you are unroped or unanchored on exposed terrain, a D1 sized avalanche could launch you over the edge.
(Above ) The North East face of Chiefshead had been getting a few repeats this summer and if you're looking for unclimbed alpine granite to new route on, look no further then the middle part of this impressive wall that tops out well above 13k near the Continental Divide in RMNP.
A climber leading throught the second pitch of Werk Supp (5.8+) on the north face of the Bastille in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado on August 25th. Rain in the peaks this week gave decent climbing conditions in Eldo and no crowds and when the skies did open, the steep and warm rock quickly dried.
  (Above left) Tommy Caldwell and Maddie enjoying the Crack of Delight on their way to Broadway on what will no doubt be a memorable day on the Diamond.
(Above right) Many parties spread out across the Yellow Wall of the Diamond on a splitter Colorado day with routes including: Pervertical, D7, and Forrest Finish(L-R).
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(Above) Mike Arnold topping out on Tower Two on the Redgarden Wall of Eldorado Canyon on August 22nd, 2009.
Mike is mentoring as a guide and Eldorado Canyon is some of the more complicated yet rewarding rock terrain to train in as a climber or guide.
The last Climbing Life rock clinics of the 2009 summer season will be held between September 18th-20th.
Eli will be teaching an AMGA course in Eldorado Canyon before departing for climbing expeditions to Peru and Ecuador this autumn: Come join us for a trip to the Andes this year! Contact Eli for more information on these and other international outings.
Sept. 4-13 AMGA RGC
Sept. 18th- Friday Clinic
Sept. 19th- Rescue Clinic
Sept. 20th- Crack Clinic
Oct. 4th - Peru Expedition
Nov. 5th - Ecuador Climbs
Eli will be traveling to Peru on a ClimbingLife Guides expedition (read more here) from the 4th until the 24th of October- this trip is still accepting team members. Two or three week options are available for alpine climbers interested in expanding their skills on the magnificent peaks of Peru .
Contact Eli at
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
for more information about this Peru expedition or our trip to Ecuador in November of 2009 to climb the three biggest volcanoes in this beautiful Andean nation.
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Climbers on the middle section of the route Rewritten, which takes a direct line up the prow of the Third Tower on the Redgarden Wall in Eldo.
Adam McFarren playing 'victim' during rock rescue training on a ClimbingLife Guides two-day rock guiding seminar. Click here for more information on this and all of the other rock training programs offered by the most experienced and qualified guide in the Front Range of Colorado.
Eli is available year-round to coach climbers of all abilities and experience in the fundamental and advanced techniques in all disciples of climbing and mountain skiing.
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The Flying Buttress and many other steep routes on the north face of Mt. Meeker see little action compared to the neighboring Longs Peak Massif. Ice season will soon be arriving in this location as it is typically one of the first to form into a medium that those equipped with pointy protrusions will appreciate.
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North American Avalanche Danger Scale
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Danger Level
(& Color)
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Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger
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Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger
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Recommended Action
in the Backcountry
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| What |
Why |
Where |
What to Do |
LOW
(GREEN) |
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.
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Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
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(YELLOW)
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Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.
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Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.
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Use caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects.
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CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE)
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Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.
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Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED)
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Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.
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Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.
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Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.
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EXTREME
(BLACK) |
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.
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Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible.
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Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.
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