|
|
Ice climbing and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes and ski descents in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth; Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide, AIARE trained avalanche educator and owner of ClimbingLife Guides.
Warning: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. ClimbingLife, LLC and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports and one can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities. Proceed at your own risk, plan for the best outcome and be prepared for the worst.
|
|
April 29th, 2010
Snow and Ice Conditions Report for Rocky Mountain National Park
We had a great week in Alaska, although the five feet of fresh snow that blanketed the area during our stay combined with some wind made for more sensitive than usual avalanche conditions. Route selection was our key risk mitigation technique and we returned with no close calls but lots of powder face shots!
Closer to home, it's been a return to winter conditions in RMNP over the last weekend and the forecast looks to be a repeat for the next four days.
The combination of new snow, colder weather, and a good melt-freeze cycle has created a solid pattern of ice formation in the high country. These ice conducive conditions have thus far favored warmer slopes with south and east facing aspects at the higher elevations doing well in this ice growing period.
The east face of Thatchtop Mountain after the 4/23-24th storm system. All Mixed Up looks mostly buried in the new snow.
High winds have been buffeting the ridgecrests so elevations above 11k will have a more sensitive snowpack and heavily loaded lee areas. It may be spring in the Front Range below 6k, but above 11k it's closer to winter in regard to snowpack stability.
Cornices are starting to release as well as the heat of spring brings-on the 'shedding season' that will continue for the next few months but reach peak intensity into the next few weeks of May.
A recent large crown on the west end of the southeast face of Mt. Ypsilon in the Mummy Range of RMNP on April 27th, 2010.
|
The south-facing Squid and Calamari looking relatively 'phat' on April 26th, 2010. Photo courtesy of Michael Arnold.
Prior to the last big storm event on April 24th, the high country of RMNP enjoyed a solid week of spring-like weather with temperatures at Bear Lk. approaching 50F and this melt-freeze cycle has been key to the strengthening of the winter snowpack.
A melt freeze cycle will grow ice in the high alpine gashes, and so perhaps during and likely following this winter storm there could be some great alpine ice "IN Shape". South, east, and western faces will form and melt most quickly and need to be climbed before the sunlight reaches these routes, creating a high probability of rock and ice fall.
Super early alpine starts and lighter packs or an overnight stay will likely be necessary to get up and down these long approach routes before the hot part of the day.
 Looking northeast from Trailridge Road towards the McGregor's Slab and behind, The Book formation at Lumpy Ridge- both in Rocky Mountain National Park and mostly dry and ready for sunny sub-alpine rock climbing.
Click on outlined photos to enlarge.
|
|
The east and south faces (R-L) of Mt. Ypsilon (13,514') shining on a warm April 27th afternoon. The northeast aspect of the cirque above Spectacle Lakes appeared to have abundant new ice linking between snowslopes through rockbands.
|
|
 (Above) Mike Arnold powder hopping in the 'Hobbit Cooler' on our recent ski trip in the spectacular Little Switzerland area of the Alaska Range.
Tomorrow is our final Friday Ski Outing of the winter season and we've been incredibly lucky with foot or more storms occurring mid-week regularly for the last few months, making these Friday Outings the prime time to be out getting the freshest tracks. It looks like this Friday will be another glorious repeat of that pattern.
Eli is available on a private or group basis for backcountry skiing as long as there are good conditions, which this year in RMNP will likely last into July in many locations. Contact him at
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
for more information or to book the outing of your choice.
Matt Kaufman on the FA of 'Bananas' (5.9) on the east face of the 'Little Nuggets' in a less explored area of Lumpy Ridge, CO.
|
(Above) The Sharkstooth throws a shadow across the east face of the Stiletto with the snow plastered, southeast face of Taylor Peak (13,153') towering over the Cathedral Spires.
(Above) Hallett Chimney on April 26th after a solid melt-freeze the night before. Maybe this will be the year for this ultra-classic 'moderate' mixed route to come into shape?
Photo courtesy of Michael Arnold.
|
 (Above) The east faces of the Ptarmigan Headwall and Glacier along with Notchtop (L-R) shining in the morning sun on April 27th, 2010.
...
The East Face of Notchop is a coveted and classic alpine route in RMNP and it tends to have high avalanche danger consistently in the spring and summer season unless there is a very good freeze and you are off the face before it warms-up. Much of the avalanche activity on this broad face funnels down into the central climbing route which creates a high danger on too-warm days.
|
|
 (Above) Hidden Valley Ski Area is filled-in well and as Trailridge road was open the other day a mile past the base of this hill, I enjoyed a few quick laps to the top, finding a mix of corn and powder in the middle of the day on LOW avi danger slopes.
April and May are two of the biggest snow months in the Front Ranges and it looks like we are on track for another month of precipitation which will be good for the water table as well as the powder skiing.
Matt going for the big runout above the slippery crux of 'Bananas' as the storm approaches.
|
(Above) The North and West (L-R) of Longs Peak on April 27th on a calm enough morning on RMNP's highest massif. The Trough Couloir is filled-in well enough to ski it from the top as is the Keplinger's Couloir.
Alpine routes such as Martha are coming into great climbing shape at the moment and soon the Dreamweaver and Flying Dutchman should be sporting ice in the crux sections and firm neve in the mornings.
Hallett's Chimney has a good chance of coming into ice shape soon as does the other south-facing couloirs on Otis Peak and the east face of Notchtop.
Remember that clear nights are key to long-wave radiation loss that helps cause the strongest cooling patterns in the mountains. Cloudy nights effectively block this radiation release and the resulting snow and ice conditions are rarely favorable when the stars are obscured.
|
|
(Above) A long view of the north faces of Powell Peak (13,208') and the Taylor Glacier Headwall (L-R) above Skypond Lake in the Loch Vale of RMNP.
Always check the current Avalanche Danger rating from the CAIC and especially accident reports as these help identify snowpack issues and terrain features that are contributing to the rash of accidents that have been increasing in recent weeks in Colorado and the U.S. Rockies. We've long surpassed last year's death toll in the U.S. for avalanches and one of the more active months is still ahead so let's all try not to become an accident report!
(Above) The coveted 'Banana Couloir' splits the south face of Mt. Chiquita (13,069') at the southern end of the Mummy Range and on April 27th it was looking pretty good in the afternoon light.
Cornices seem to be a bit larger than usual and with more snow loading and the onset of very warm weather, we should be expecting these beasts to start dropping-off at regular intervals. As they are primarily on east and south aspects in RMNP, these would be the slopes to avoid at warm >30F times or when there hasn't been a solid freeze the night before - typically due to thick cloud cover.
( Above) Enjoying a bluebird day of heli-free skiing in Denali National Park, Alaska on the ClimbingLife Guides, Alaskan Ski Mountaineering Trip. We experienced up to five feet of fresh snow that fell over our six days, so the trailbreaking and powder turns were super deep in this bottomless powder. We'll be returning to these spectacular mountains for a week of 'Bugaboo Style' granite alpine climbing in June for our Alpine Rock Trip - check it out!
  
Eli Helmuth is an UIAGM Licensed Mountain Guide and AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine, Ski Mountaineering Guide. He is also the proud father of three week old, Ella Rose and her brother Finley Cameron Helmuth, shown here enjoying some hiking at Lumpy Ridge, Colorado last week.
Contact us at:
This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
or call 970.744.4898 to plan a fun-filled and educational mountain outing with Eli Helmuth, RMNP's most experienced mountain guide, now in the 22nd year of his professional career.
|
|
North American Avalanche Danger Scale
|
|
Danger Level
(& Color)
|
Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger
|
Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger
|
Recommended Action
in the Backcountry
|
| What |
Why |
Where |
What to Do |
LOW
(GREEN) |
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.
|
Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
|
(YELLOW)
|
Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.
|
Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.
|
Use caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects.
|
|
CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE)
|
Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.
|
Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED)
|
Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.
|
Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.
|
Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.
|
EXTREME
(BLACK) |
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.
|
Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible.
|
Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.
|
|
Photos below are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.
Consult the CAIC website for current Avalanche Danger forecasts here.
Routes are sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW Avalanche Danger as of 4/29/10 (human caused unlikely)
|
Hidden Falls
WI- 3+
one the way out- watch out for falling ice and big collapses |
Loch Vale Ice
WI 2-5
M1-8
OUT - bad year
|
Jewel Lake
WI 2-3
OUT - snow covered
|
|
LOW Avalanche Danger as of 4/29/10 (human caused unlikely)
|
Jaws
WI 3-5
OUT
|
Squid
WI 5
IN and OUT on a regular basis
|
Deep Freeze
WI- 5
OUT - too dry
|
MODERATE Avalanche Danger as of 4/29/10 (human caused possible) |
|
Columbine Falls
WI 3-4
IN - but mostly snow covered
|
Necrophilia
WI 5, M5
OUT
|
Black Lake Slabs
WI2
IN
|
CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 4/29/10 (human caused probable) |
|
The Crypt
WI-4
IN- but short for the length of the approach.
|
Grace Falls
WI 3-5
IN
|
NE Gully
WI3
OUT
|
CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 4/29/10 (human caused probable) |
|
|
Flying Dutchman
WI-2
Snow - no ice yet
|
All Mixed Up
WI -3, M2
Mostly Out |
West Gully
WI - 3
IN- but getting too warm |
CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 4/29/10 (human caused probable) |
|
Martha
WI - 2, M-1
IN - getting better daily
|
Hallett's Chimney
WI-5, M-4
OUT/IN - May or June?
|
Field's Chimney
WI-5. M4
OUT - could be forming in current conditions
|
CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 4/29/10 (human caused probable) |
|
|
Alexander's Chimney
WI-4, M4
OUT- could be forming in current conditions
|
Smear of Fear
WI-5, M5
OUT
|
New Beginnings
WI-5, M5
OUT - but could reform in current conditions
|
CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger as of 4/29/10 (human caused probable) |
|
The Window
WI-5, M4
OUT
|
Vanquished
WI-5, M4
OUT
|
Hot Doggies
WI-5+
OUT
|
|
HIGH Avalanche Danger as of 4/29/10 (human caused likely)
|
|
East Face, Notchtop
WI-3+, M3
OUT-
could be coming IN but avi danger will be a problem in warm weather or with new snow.
|
|
|
|
North American Avalanche Danger Scale
|
|
Danger Level
(& Color)
|
Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger
|
Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger
|
Recommended Action
in the Backcountry
|
| What |
Why |
Where |
What to Do |
LOW
(GREEN) |
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely.
|
Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
|
(YELLOW)
|
Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible.
|
Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain.
|
Use caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects.
|
|
CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE)
|
Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable.
|
Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH
(RED)
|
Natural and human triggered avalanches likely.
|
Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles.
|
Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above.
|
EXTREME
(BLACK) |
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain.
|
Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. Large, destructive avalanches possible.
|
Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.
|
|
|
|
