Black Diamond athlete Conrad Anker is a master of ice climbing—at the crags and in the mountains. We caught up with him at his home in Bozeman, Montana and went out for a day of swinging tools with him on Black Magic, a classic mixed line in nearby Hyalite Canyon. Conrad overdosed us with caffeine in the pre-dawn hours, entertained us with tales of climbing with his best friend, the late, great Alex Lowe, as we drove up the canyon, and then belted out The Clash's "The Guns Of Brixton" as he burned through a couple laps on the WI4 pitch. It was a great day with a great friend—thanks for the tour, Conrad!
‘Islands: Traditional Tales of Lakeland Climbing’ is a three part film, giving an insight into the world of hard traditional ascents in the birthplace of rock climbing, the English Lake District. With sport climbing and bouldering gaining popularity, this film provides a deep and sometimes comical perspective on the great British trad climbing tradition. A sensitive and cinematic documentary film, that represents the Lakes and it’s characters in a simple and poignant way. Directed and produced by Dom Bush of Land and Sky Media, featuring first ascents and hard repeats from Mike Przygrodzki, Stuart Wood, Adam Hocking and James McHaffie and interviews from Dave Birkett and Leo Houlding. All credits at the end of Chapter 3.
Sasha DiGiulian. "Pure Imagination" 5.14d (9a).
Filmed and Edited by: 3SM
After a whirlwind three day travel sequence Lucho and I found ourselves on Tioman Island staring up at the mythical "Dragon's Horns." It was hard to believe that only one of the huge jungle spires had been climbed...until we started the approach...then it made more sense. But after some epic jungle bushwhacking which culminated with me being attacked by giant hummingbird sized wasps, we someway, somehow, managed to summit the unclimbed Dragon's Horn on our first full day on the island. We topped out at night and endured a shiver bivy until about two a.m. when an an impending lightning storm encouraged us to rappel at night. I hope this short film captures some of the magic of our Experience.
We are raising money in the name of our climb for Big City Mountaineers, an awesome program that gets under resourced teens into the wilderness. Programs like these are close to mine and Lucho's hearts and we'd really appreciate even a couple dollars donated in our names.... find out more by going here.
Québec Ice Trip by the Petzl crew.
Jenn Fleming redpoints Fraid Lines in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.
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To donwload the music of the video, to see more pictures and read all the stories of Petzl RocTrip China, please head to the Petzl site here.
Fred Nicole's lines have inspired thousands and pushed our imaginations to stretch the possible into reality. The first to climb the grades 8b, 8b+ and 8c, he redefined what is possible. His vision and passion are largely responsible for the development of the hardest lines in the best (and best known) areas on Earth, from Magic Wood to Hueco Tanks, to the Rocklands ~Rock and Ice
Music: Green Button Music "As The Clock Turns" "The Museum" GreenButtonMusic.com
